It seems that the beer nerd collective has decided that pumpkin beer has gone too far. There are too many of them (the LCBO lists around 10), and they have too much spice and not enough “real beer” flavour. On the other side of the coin there are those who like these seasonal releases — possibly because they don’t taste very much like beer.
I have a solution that I think will satisfy everyone. Rather, Great Lakes does, with its Saison Dupump. Great Lakes has taken its special release Pumpkin Ale and brewed it with Belgian saison yeast. So it has all of those pumpkin pie spices and roasted, vegetal flavours, but it’s all set against a complex (and popular) beer style.
In a tulip glass, the Dupump pours a deep orange-gold with a cloudy haze and a strong, off-white froth. The pumpkin side takes a lead on the nose with a fistful of spices that I associate with Thanksgiving dessert — mainly nutmeg, cloves and allspice.
Yeast-driven flavours of grass, pepper and a slight sweetness come through on the palate. Between those and the slightly acidic finish, we get a remarkably delicious contrast to the warm spices we found in the aroma.
The key to choosing a harmonious partner for Thanksgiving dinner is to remember that turkey has almost no flavour, so focus on the sides and sauces. I like that the aroma notes from this beer will pair with roasted squash or glazed sweet potatoes, and the nimble flavours will do a good job of setting off a rich gravy and a meaty, sausage stuffing.
There is quite a large supply of the Dupump in the LCBO, but it might make sense to stash away a few bottles for Halloween.
Great Lakes Brewery’s Saison Dupump, $5.95 for a 650 ml bottle, LCBO #362814
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is also the author of the upcoming Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
