With men’s fashion weeks underway in Milan and Paris this month, a certain Toronto designer made a bang across the pond with his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. Mr. Saturday, a brand created by Toronto designer Joey Gollish, had a runway show to remember this past weekend, and the collection will certainly be setting trends in men’s fashion for the year ahead.
Gollish made his debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2021, just four years after launching the brand in 2017. Mr. Saturday quickly launched into fame, earning the award for top menswear brand at the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards in 2022.
At this year’s Fall 2023 show in Paris, Gollish called upon the dichotomous style and class of Les Bains Douches, an esteemed night club in the heart of Paris. The night club was known for serving as a temple of night culture, and during the era of the club’s existence (it closed in 2010), Parisians would find themselves partying beside the likes of Jean-Michel Basqiuat, Mick Jagger and Kate Moss, to name a few.
In the ’70s and ’80s, party-goers donned eclectic styles. Gollish’s collection called upon the exuberant style of Les Bains Douches, citing it as “an untouchable haven in the Golden Age of Paris,” and “an arena for free flowing and spontaneous acts of creation.”
The assemblage saw sharp outwear with fur details retrofitted into the inner linings, or plastered across garments in a sporadic manner. Suit trousers were paired with long pointed toe boots. In true Mr. Saturday style, high street-inspired looks dominated the second half, calling upon monochromatic, baggy bottoms with exposed stitching and a silver reflective puffer in true vintage colouring.
Mr. Saturday is helping set numerous trends this fashion week; here are four to look out for on the streets of Toronto.
Snug tailoring
Mr. Saturday highlighted a trend we’re sure to see more of this year — snug, tight tailoring for everything from formalwear to jackets. Outerwear featured truncated sleeves, with some looks exposing the wrist, while more formal looks were tightly fitted.
Fur elements
Many of the runway looks included fur elements, from full jackets to fur hats to small embellishments on tops and blazers. It’s a trend we’ve seen across all genders thus far and will surely become even more prominent as the trend picks up speed in mainstream fashion.
Streetwear meets high fashion
The designs also combined streetwear elements with high fashion details — the second look of the collection was a fur-lined, black leather jacket with exposed fur stitching running down the middle of the jacket, tapering off into pockets and stripes. To keep the essence of street fashion, Gollish opted for a loose tailoring of the jacket’s sleeves, which matched the billowing bottoms.
Statement outerwear
Outerwear has typically been more subdued in men’s fashion, but Mr. Saturday’s show featured all kinds of unique outerwear looks, from futuristic ski coats to ’90s shearling looks.
Finally, Gollish set the tone for future fashion weeks by collaborating with Canadian outdoor retailer, Roots. It has become a trend and a right of passage for high fashion labels to collaborate with other brilliant minds in fashion. This season, Mr. Saturday kept it local, and the brand collaborated on the two handbags which appeared in two of his more nonchalant, conventional looks.
Get inspired by one of Toronto’s top men’s designers for your 2023 fashion!
