At the end of November, chef Jen Agg – who’s the mastermind behind many Toronto restaurants, including Grey Gardens – took to Instagram to share her sobering thoughts about Rhum Corner, one of her iconic establishments. “Rhum has both thrived and persevered for 11 years, but it’s starting to feel like we can’t keep going,” she wrote.
Agg went on to say that it’s not just Rhum Corner that’s suffering — she feels like a lot of seemingly beloved older restaurants are suffering the same fate, coupled with issues of increased rent. And she issued a warning: “If we don’t support our older restaurants that we think we love, they are going to disappear. I promise.”
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Andrew Piccinin, an executive chef who oversees a number of classic Oliver & Bonacini restaurants like Parcheggio, Jump and Leña, among others, echoes Agg’s sentiment.
“If there’s a restaurant you love, support it — not just on Fridays and Saturdays, but throughout the week. Your loyalty helps ensure these beloved staples continue to thrive.”
“Toronto has long been known for its appetite for the next ‘hot new thing,’ and that hasn’t changed since COVID, says Piccinin. “These buzzworthy restaurants deserve the chance to establish themselves as staples in the dining scene, however, longstanding ‘staple’ restaurants are now struggling as diners don’t return with the same frequency as they once did.”
Sure, he acknowledges, there are patterns and external factors that change dining habits — economic downturn, alcohol consumption and an overall shift in patterns and priorities. But, still, he stresses the importance of patronizing iconic spots whenever it’s an option, advising foodies to think about the places they’ve loved over the years and the obstacles they face in this city.
“The restaurant industry has always been a cycle of booms and busts, with economic downturns and the pandemic delivering especially hard blows,” Piccinin says. “Even the most celebrated and established restaurants can face closure when operating costs and guest spending habits shift dramatically. If you truly love a restaurant, dine with intention. Support the places that have brought you joy in the past and play a role in ensuring they’re still here to create memorable experiences in the future.”
In a city that’s always chasing the newest food trends, it’s important to remember the classic spots that built Toronto’s dining scene. Take Hemingway’s, a quintessential pub on the edge of Yorkville since 1985, where pints and classic comfort food reign supreme. Then there’s Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, a much loved brunch spot in Liberty Village that has been serving up inventive dishes like their famous blueberry buttermilk pancakes for nearly three decades. House of Gourmet has been dishing out delicious Cantonese comfort food in Kensington Market since 1986, while The Senator, an iconic diner since 1929, remains the go-to for old-school vibes and hearty breakfasts.
These establishments remind us that amidst the frenzy for the new and shiny, the heart and soul of Toronto’s food scene thrive in these cherished restaurants that deserve our support.
