It goes without saying that Jen Agg is a polarizing figure. Love her (she's a badass woman in a tough industry) or love to hate her (she's snark personified), it's hard not to fall for her restaurants. At Grey Gardens, Agg has enlisted chef Mitchell Bates and partner in crime Peter Jensen to run the kitchen (both hopped over from Shōtō). The duo delivers a seasonal menu that can be dubbed new North American, yet refuses to settle on one culinary region. Fancy snacks (for fancy prices) are the name of the game here. Shrimp arrive with paper-thin slips of radish and carrot, set off by crisp curls of lardo for a dish that somehow transforms wintry flavours into summery bites.