Rachel Sin was the first show we took in on the fourth day. For spring, the young designer sent out a series of looks inspired by architect Mies van der Rohe, aiming to translate his architectural lines into her garments.
Unfortunately, Sin played it far too safe; the simplicity underwhelmed, and we saw little of the strict lines we expected to see. To add insult to injury, the sheen of undergarments peeking out from beneath lace tops served to distract from the clothes (and what does lace have to do with van der Rohe?). The best of the bunch was a bubblegum pink dress that draped well and would make for a pretty party frock. Next time we hope Sin pushes herself further.
At Soïa & Kyo we caught makeup artist Myles Sexton in a fantastical hairdo — complete with antlers — in addition to designer Adrian Wu, Plaid Magazine’s Odessa Paloma Parker and Ainsley Kerr taking in the show. Out marched a collection of sporty and sweet separates in Creamsicle-worthy shades (evidently all of Toronto will be outfitted like My Little Pony come spring, based on what we’ve seen this week).
Layering was big: heads were wrapped in loose turbans; feet were clad in ankle socks and wedges; bodies were ensconced in button-downs, lightweight knits, flirty skirts or pants, a jacket or two, and often cinched with a loose interpretation of an obi. Men got the layering treatment too. For the ladies, we liked a black and white striped skirt paired with a chartreuse-edged button-down, a sparkly sweater complete with circular motif and a cropped trench. Meanwhile, we loved a pair of shorts in a dusky blue and cream stripe for men. In the end, the collection was very wearable and saleable.
Soïa & Kyo
The day’s big draw was clearly Arthur Mendonça. Stacey McKenzie was seen strutting around in more hot-off-the-presses Evan Biddell, while Fashion File’s Adrian Mainella, Tony Pham, Suzanne Boyd and Glenna Weddle sought out their respective seats. Beginning with a series of white looks, Mendonça’s woman was strong and sleek. Japonisme was present with the inclusion of obis — some in silk, others in leather — and sculptural heels, tied at the ankle with lengths of ribbon.
The materials were undoubtedly sumptuous, with silks and cotton silks gleaming under the runway lights, and Mendonça’s technical skills were evident. We fell for a strapless jumpsuit done in a tonal blue print —reminiscent of a manipulated ikat — matched with a blazer for an alluring look. A dusky rose silk top paired with a draped coral skirt was another favourite. Although we would have liked to see more unique silhouettes from the designer, Mendonça clearly knows his customer and sent out a beautiful collection that would easily be incorporated into any woman’s wardrobe.
Arthur Mendonça
Up next: Unttld and Vawk
