Easing the way into what is bound to be a whirlwind Fashion Week, Monday’s line-up included two major draws: Lucian Matis and the Holt Renfrew show.
Matis, the hotly-debated runner-up on Project Runway Canada, elected to present his fall collection at The Fairmont Royal York, away from the main Fashion Week venue. Guests — including Sarah Gadon (in a tulle Lucian Matis number), Plaid magazine’s Odessa Paloma Parker and designer Wesley Badanjak — mingled and sipped on sparkling wine before heading into the ballroom. Accented in teal and bronze, the space features a painted ceiling from which hefty chandeliers are suspended, and served as an elegant backdrop to the collection. Less elegent was the process of finding the right seat, as the name cards seemed to have been arbitrarily arranged.
As the models made their way around the U-shaped runway, it was clear that Matis’ vision for the season was a darkly romantic one. Inspired by lines in nature — think butterfly wings, frosted ice and rock formations — much of the all-black collection was composed of looks prominently featuring a dense lace. A floor-length lace number starring a plunging neckline and a thigh-high slit was a definite highlight. While many of the looks were stunning, the parade of dresses felt a little bit repetitive and the pasties used with the sheerer garments were very distracting.
Some of the more opulent looks incorporated dark green iridescent feathers. A breathtaking ball gown was fitted on top before bursting into a feather-covered skirt; a feathered dress — complete with wing-like sleeves — veered into costume territory, seeming better suited to Mozart’s plumage-covered character Papageno than a party guest. As the show came to a close and Matis took his turn on the runway, much of the crowd stood up in appreciation, clearly impressed by the designer’s vision.
The night’s second big-ticket show was held in the tents at David Pecaut Square, currently Fashion Week HQ. Among the throngs of attendees, we spotted model Stacey McKenzie, Flare magazine’s Lisa Tant and Liz Cabral, and gossip columnist Shinan Govani. As the lights dimmed, a male tap dancer with a huge grin worked his way down the runway as a piano belted out a ’20s jazz tune. After throwing in a split or two — to the crowd’s delight — the show began. With an all-Canadian soundtrack setting the scene (Arcade Fire, Feist and Austra were among the artists), select looks from Smythe, Dennis Merotto, Jeremy Laing, Mackage, Judith & Charles and TwentyCluny were sent down the runway.
Standout looks included Smythe’s green-on-green houndstooth jacket, which was paired with a funny equestrian-influenced cat hat, and a black leather jacket fronted in glossy black fur from Judith & Charles. A full-skirted coat with leather details from Mackage was an edgy feminine look for winter; Line’s knit skirt, which was shot with greys and pinks, was paired with a wool and leather jacket for a more youthful silhouette.
We liked TwentyCluny’s oatmeal dress with sequined epaulettes, but didn’t care for a belt spelling out the line’s name, which reminded us too much of Moschino for comfort. Laing (who just showed in New York) closed the show and was by far our favourite. A sporty charcoal grey and black tri-layered look fell effortlessly while a leather-sleeved tunic patterned with black lilies was a unique take on a floral print. Despite a stellar soundtrack (far better than last year’s) and the energetic opening, much of the Holts presentation lacked panache. Perhaps next season they’ll get it right.
In tomorrow’s Fashion Week Diaries: the latest looks from Chloé Comme Parris and Sid Neigum
