Despite years spent working in the hospitality industry, when GianPaolo Testa first purchased the storefront at 970 College Street on a whim, he wasn’t certain what kind of space he wanted to use it for.
But, fortunately for him, the very next day, he set off to Italy and eventually, on one of his final nights in Rome, he stumbled into a space that would inspire him to open Lardo —Toronto’s newest sandwich shop, grocer and soon-to-be wine shop.
“I walked in and was completely overwhelmed with the stock and quality of everything that was there,” he describes the store that inspired his own, adding that just as he was about to leave, he kept hearing a “thud” and discovered there was a little wine bar at the back of the shop. A packed crowd was gathered around a U-shaped standing bar.
“It was a really cool concept and kicked off what I want to do,” says Testa, who opened the new deli with his wife Tenma Testa.
Though Lardo may not exactly replicate the spot he discovered in Rome, Testa did gain inspiration from the space, choosing to make Lardo a retailer and deli for now, with plans to grow into a wine-bar in the future.
Upon entering Lardo, you’ll beset by the retail area. Here, you can indulge in specialty coffee while perusing a selection of meats, bread, cheese, and Lardo’s signature housemade offerings like cannoli. Testa explains he’s always eager to help people who are looking for something new to bring home.
“We’re looking to make everyone’s decisions to make dinner that night a little bit easier and a lot more delicious,” he says.
A palette of earth tones infuses the space with an air of brightness and openness, transitioning the grocery area into a complete dining space toward the rear. Currently, the lunch menu boasts a dynamic rotation of sandwiches. Among them, a standout is the homemade meatball sandwich. Crafted with a blend of pork, veal, and beef, it simmers in a slow-cooked tomato sauce and is crowned with smoked mozzarella.
Another great option, according to Testa, features Genoa salami and mortadella hailing from the Bologna region. It’s topped with gremolata— a citrusy, earthy sauce of lemon zest, lemon juice and garlic.
“The sandwiches are kind of always changing to see what people are gravitating towards and what new and exciting combinations we’re coming up with,” he says.
Though currently Lardo is only serving up the sandwiches, Testa hopes to soon be able to offer a dinner menu of shared plates as they head into the fall.
“We’re constantly kind of re-calibrating and refining our offerings,” explains Testa. “At the moment, the offerings are always changing, including sandwiches, coffee, wine and cocktails. The rest is kind of writing itself, I suppose.”
Lardo is located at 970 College St., and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m to 6 p.m.
