Zucca’s cornmeal pudding
Andrew Milne-Allan’s carrot-top may have dimmed slightly in the three decades that he’s been producing superlative edible Italiana in Toronto, but his cooking has not. And nor has his commitment to the craft. Most chefs of his age and stature would have passed off the nightly grind to a sous-chef long ago, but go to Zucca and you can see the string-bean carrot-top in the kitchen — every night. Which explains why Zucca is still delectable after 15 years.
For dessert, his cornmeal pudding with lemon curd and blueberry is irresistible. Add the suave and attentive service to that offering, inhale deeply and swoon.
Zucca is located at 2150 Yonge St., 416-488-5774.
Campagnolo’s caramel budino
How is it possible to have one of the best dinners in town at a schleppy-looking little resto, barely nicer than a diner with dimmers? Because chef Craig Harding learned to cook like an artist from his Italian grandma.
The breadbasket is fabulous warm, cheesy gougère pastry and house-made baguette. Harding’s burrata is a killer combo of fresh mozzarella and cream with roasted grapes.
Save room for dessert, because the salted caramel budino is the most exciting pudding in town.
Campagnolo is located at 832 Dundas St. W., 416-364-4785.
Pizzeria Libretto’s lemon panna cotta
Those who do not wait well will eschew the hottest pizzeria in town, for it does not take reservations. You will wait … for pizza baked in the 900-degree wood- burning oven that was built for them by a third-generation pizza oven maker in Naples. The house that pizza built is noisy and often frantic, but the crust is always crisp and the toppings impeccable.
For dessert, avoid the heavy cannoli and swoon on quivery, creamy lemon panna cotta.
Pizzeria Libretto is located at 1288 Dundas St. W., 416-534-1200.
L’Unita’s bambolini
Every restaurant has its own character, and L’unità’s is a special combo of a commitment to excellence in food and service and a fierce avoidance of formality. They make you feel like a cherished neighbour in their tasteful home — exposed brick, antique mirrors, Italian ad posters and Venetian chandeliers. Dining inexpensively here is a great bet on pizza or pasta, always done credibly; they also have their risotto under control. For dessert the ultra-crisp, ungreasy bambolini — an Italian doughnut that will ensure you never darken Timmy’s door again.
L’unità is located at 134 Avenue Rd., 416-964-8686.