Toronto might be snowed under this month, but a new fiery cocktail bar in Queen West has been spreading the heat. From char-grilled fusion cuisine to smoky cocktails, everything at Ceniza has been “kissed by fire.”
That even includes the restaurant’s name which means “ash” in Spanish.
“For me, fire is very dramatic and powerful, and then after that, what remains is what is really true,” says owner Ernesto Rodriguez.
“There’s a lot of what I would call noise, if you will, around the industry with restaurants that open and close, or that go with trends, and for me, it’s like a big fire. But after that what remains is what is really solid and true and consistent. Fire is very dramatic and powerful but what stays is the warmth that lingers, and I translate that to the deep flavours, the feeling in the room, the conversation.”
Rodriguez says his “lifelong passion” has been rooted in food, wine and hospitality, and more specifically, “the memory, the emotion, the connection” that they inspire. and
“I grew up in a family that enjoyed getting together and of course the food is the prime element, but just being around food for me means connection and emotion and creating memories by being with people you care about.”
That’s why Ceniza is designed as a place to come together, either for a couple drinks and a small plate or to settle in for a night — especially given the late-night kitchen which is open until midnight. Set to the backdrop of soft music and live DJs most Saturdays, the atmospheric space offers a dim light reminiscent of the soft glow of hot embers.
Ceniza’s kitchen is hemmed by chef Jose Davalos, who uses his varied experience with international cuisine to introduce a menu where Italian, French, Mexican and Peruvian—illuminated by Latin American and Japanese influence—flavours come together. This fusion is most evident in the crunchy, creamy tuna wonton tostadas, which are topped with the Peruvian leche de tigre sauce, and on the dessert menu where the tiramisu and churros sit side by side.
And, from the guacamole topped with tortilla ash and lightly charred corn ribs to a seafood risotto with smoked sea salt, there’s flame in every corner of the menu.
“If you do too much, it’s going to overwhelm the food, but if you just use a little bit of smoked salt, or you use a little bit of fire directly while you’re cooking to give these charred flavours, it elevates the food and creates something completely different,” Rodriguez says.
The signature cocktails don’t hold back on bringing the bold heat, either. Names like “King of Embers” and “Fire Blossom” fit the theatrical motif while the signature namesake drink is finished with smoke and given a blackened edge that’s touched with gold. If you’re lucky, the bartender will roll out a cart and craft the signature cocktails right beside your table—smoke, flame, ash, and all.
If nothing is calling to you on the menu, Rodriguez says there’s no need to be shy at Ceniza. The mixologist will go to your table, ask your preference of flavours and base drink, and create a one-of-a-kind signature drink just for you.
“If you’re feeling something special for the day, then we can create something more refreshing, or more sweet or sour,” he says. “We just get a little bit of information and then we create a cocktail right next to the table that is 100 per cent your own creation.”
Ceniza is now open at 942 Queen Street West.
