The final day of Fashion Week arrived along with a collective sigh of relief. Travis Taddeo rang in the start of the day (for us, at least), showing an all-black collection punctuated with extravagant recycled fur pieces.
Worn by both male and female models, the majority of the pieces possessed an androgynous feel, with many of the garments skimming over the body. As ever, the pieces conveyed a dark urbanity, although this time there was an added rawness to the looks, accomplished through the fur and hulking patchwork leather scarves. Highlights included a men’s perfecto studded with a jumble of hardware and glass, a lustrous black fur sweatshirt (not the one which resembled a furry mascot missing its head) and a layered women’s look anchored by a giant fur cape. Taddeo continues to excite and intrigue with every collection.
Images: George Pimentel/Getty Images for IMG
Up next was Thomas Bálint, a recently restructured label by designer Michael Thomas Bálint, who works from his namesake store on Queen West. More black-on-black was ingested, with a series of timeless and seasonless pieces sent down the runway. Bálint’s keen focus on construction was evident, and the designer incorporated his own fabrics into the collection. Standouts included a loose-fitting waxed trench and a partially sheer button-down with horizontal stripes. A look featuring a collarless suit jacket paired with a collared shirt and a skinny tie felt very fresh. As the designer took his bow, he ran over to give his grandma a kiss on the cheek, endearing him to everyone.
Images: George Pimentel/Getty Images for IMG
Caitlin Power saw the fashion folk cram into the studio space, with plenty of guests decked out in her designs. Another of the week’s buzziest shows, there was a palpable excitement in the air — something that felt a bit let out by the end due to the high hopes. Power showed what we’ve come to expect: crisp menswear-influenced pieces with a futuristic lean. The opening look was a grey wool coat topped with a shiny lick of burgundy. Her signature tailored button-downs were there, but they lacked the eye-catching details of seasons past (like neon piping). The tux was referenced through Power’s take on the tuxedo pant, and skirts with an asymmetrical hem, outlined sharply in black. A geometric jacquard felt a bit frumpy and failed to stimulate visually. The best look was the final one: a pewter, midnight blue and black dress that fit the model like a glove.
Images: George Pimentel/Getty Images for IMG
Lucian Matis’ high-end showing fared much better than his Matis one. After guests made their way from the tents to the more intimate showing at One King West Hotel, the invite-only event saw Nathalie Atkinson, Derick Chetty (in eye-catching iridescent shoes), Erin Karpluk, Rosey Edeh and rocker Robin Black sipping on cocktails and chomping on mini-cheesecakes before the show began.
Fall heralded a new direction for Matis, who’s known for his intricate, fanciful concoctions redolent of femininity. Stripping away the details, the designer instead focused on the silhouette — a move hinted at during Matis, with the aforementioned Mary Katherine Gallagher dress. Done in a restrained palette (think black, grey and cream), the shapes were architectural and swung from easy-to-wear to adventurous. Some worked well; others didn’t. Fur — a clear trend for fall — was featured rather prominently. Standouts included a fur-fronted sweater, a daring fur trapeze coat and slim-fitting shifts fronted by fur panels. A turtleneck with a giant ruffle extending from arm to arm was simply stunning. The audience wasn’t quite sure what to think, and when Matis sprinted down the runway there was no standing ovation — however, this is the type of collection that doesn’t provide instant gratification, but slowly grows on you. We just wonder what the uptown ladies will think.
Images: Jenna Marie Wakani
And with that, Fashion Week came to a close.