Last week, Toronto’s most fashionable gathered at the Andrew Richard Designs’ loft space in the east end to take in two days of The ShOws. Bringing some of Canada’s most talented designers together under one roof — many of whom show on international runways — the event helps raise public awareness of the incredible work Canadian designers are putting out.
Boldfaced names like Barbara Atkin, Susie Sheffman, Glen Baxter, Lisa Tant, Suzanne Dimma and Shauna Levy were all spotted in the front row, while Brian Bailey acted as host. Following each show, a Q&A with the designer helped illuminate attendees on the intensive process involved in fabric and garment design.
The first day saw runway presentations from Comrags, the local label designed by Joyce Gunhouse and Judy Cornish. The duo noted that they decided to restrict themselves with this year’s fall/winter collection, allowing a maximum of two pieces per outfit. A muted palette (think: rich brown, navy blue and steel grey, with occasional pops of colour) was livened up with various geometric prints. We liked an artfully draped teal tunic layered over pants, and an overcoat done in a silver and black print.
Jean-Pierre Braganza returned to the city for another runway presentation. This time around, the London-based expat showed a series of futuristic looks that played around with hemlines and various proportions. The waist was often a focal point, with wrap-around belts and fabric inserts serving to accentuate it. Prints — designed by Braganza — felt mystical, thanks to swirling dragon tail patterns and images of far off lands. A favourite look layered a shift dress, printed with a delicate geometric pattern, over a floor-brushing skirt.
Day two brought together three designers: Tanya Taylor, Steven Tai and Jeremy Laing. Showing first, Taylor’s vision for fall was ladylike yet edgy, and was rife with prints inspired by the mid-century ceramic tile work of Jean-Pierre Raynaud. With the prints all drawn by hand, each one was expanded and manipulated before being produced in New York, where Taylor is currently based. Altogether, the collection was full of covetable and very wearable looks. Favourites included a kaleidoscopic dress juxtaposing two prints, a dusty pink metallic biker jacket and a black leather look with a pop of orange at the collar topped with a checkered white jacket.
Next up was the London-based Steven Tai, a recent graduate of the Central Saint Martins esteemed fashion program. His entire collection was injected with an unmistakable joie de vivre, starring blown-up garments that looked as though they’d been plucked off the backs of Tokyo’s coolest kids. Embracing sportiness and a 90s raver aesthetic, the collection featured oversized pants, giant A-line skirts, and the aforementioned toppers, all crafted out of unorthodox materials. Comparing his studio to a science lab, Tai explained that certain pieces were made using molded silicone and jersey, with fasteners created with the aid of magnets. The freshest pieces were the sweatshirts starring pastoral scenes based on vintage postcards that were both digitally printed and embroidered. The crowd also got a chance to see his award-winning graduate collection, which was based on bookbinding techniques. Definitely one to watch.
The two-day affair ended with Jeremy Laing, arguably Canada’s most exciting designer. Referencing sports gear once again, this collection had a narrower fit and was slightly more wearable than last season’s. Featuring various innovative fabrics (such as a bewitching gold lamé seersucker), Laing noted that the pieces were “hard to sew; easy to wear!” Top looks included a series of chiffon t-shirts layered over dresses with a kangaroo pocket, allowing the wearer to part the garment as one would part their hair. Very innovative and beautiful in the simplest of ways. Laing’s artist friend Vanessa Maltese collaborated on the collection; the strongest pieces featured a cross print that was a blown-up photograph of the artist’s painting.
The week ahead will see plenty more fashion stories for fall/winter 2013 unfold at World MasterCard Fashion Week.