In the dining world, there’s a legend whispered among chefs and foodies alike — the dreaded “curse of the 30-seat restaurant.” These snug spots, tucked away in Toronto’s bustling neighbourhoods have been known to face challenges like tight seating, fierce competition and slim profits.
But the times they are a-changin. Small restaurants, once seen as risky, are now thriving. This challenges old ideas and shows that Toronto loves its food variety. With new restaurants popping up everywhere, it’s clear the curse of the 30-seat spot is fading, making Toronto’s dining scene more exciting and diverse than ever!
Here are some of Toronto’s best small dining spots.
Dreyfus
Dreyfus is a cosy French bistro from Zach Kolomeir, former chef de cuisine at Montreal’s revered Joe Beef restaurant. The brief, ever-changing menu focuses on simple, well-executed French fare, with a few nods to Kolomeir’s Jewish heritage and the culture’s influence on Québécois cuisine. Think dishes like baked oysters, with smoked eel and Parmesan, and mini-cubano sandwiches topped with pickles. Most ingredients come from local farms, fisheries and small producers. The wine list, too, is constantly rotating and emphasizes unusual natural wines. The restaurant’s homey Victorian townhouse setting can only accommodate about 30 diners, so plan to reserve a table well in advance.
Côte de Bœuf
Opened on Ossington is the European-style Côte de Boeuf. The store, previously a flower shop, bills itself simply: “select grocer, butcher, meals.” From the outside in, Côte de Boeuf looks like a European butcher shop of old: cuts of meat hanging out front, plated goods at the window and a butcher’s block is visible too. The interior is decked out with tiled ceilings, and custom cabinetry holds ready-to-go meats, whole chickens, duck fat and smoked meats and fish. Behind the counter, you’ll find daily-prepared foods, meat pies, hot sandwiches, charcuterie, foie gras, potato salad and meals for a quick bite at the counter or to go.
Itacate
The sign out front says Macelleria, which means butcher. So technically this is a taqueria within a butcher shop. But it’s more the other way around, as the kitchen in the front takes up more space than the display fridge at the back filled with chicken livers and goat legs. Between tacos made with fresh tortillas and soft tamales as big as a shoe, it’s hard not to over-order here. But don’t miss the indulgent fried quesadillas stuffed with meat, cheese and chicharron, or the pambazos sandwiches, packed with chorizo and crema. Specials like chilaquiles and pozoles are a treat for weekend visitors.
Hanmoto
Hanmoto is an ultra-cool Japanese snack bar tucked in an unmarked building just north of Dundas West. Leave diets at the door because the food here is indulgent izakaya fare at its best. Case in point are the restaurant’s legendary Dyno Wings: deep-fried chicken wings filled with spicy pork sausage. The shareable dishes are all designed to be paired with Asian-influenced cocktails, on-tap Asahi beer or sippable sake. Like Leemo Han’s other restaurants (OddSeoul, Pinky’s Ca Phe, Seoul Shakers), Hanmoto has a secretive, speakeasy vibe, thanks to a small, industrial interior and moody lighting.
Restaurant 20 Victoria
Although the space might be tiny — just 20 seats indoors and an additional 14 on the patio — it’s what makes Restaurant 20 Victoria feel both accessible and exclusively cool. Offering a full seven-plus-course set menu, in the warmer months opt for street side dining under the restaurant’s white open tents and tables adorned with elegant linens. The menu is spearheaded by head chef Julie Hyde and in the past has featured fanciful dishes, including sturgeon and Jerusalem artichoke. Make sure to save room for one of the glorious desserts, like the apple mousse cake or citrus meringue tart.
