The life of a pitmaster can be a complicated one. The lengthy list of concerns can include any or all of the following: marinades, brines, injections, rubs, wood, fire, sauces, smoke and of course, meat. Just about everything involved is time-consuming. But Alex Rad, owner and chef of the newly opened SmoQue N Bones, is keeping things simple.
“I like simplicity,” he says. “You shouldn’t complicate food too much.”
His beef brisket, for example ($14.90 per half pound), is rubbed with a classic spice mix (paprika, cayenne, brown sugar and other herbs) and then smoked for around 12 hours. No brines, no injections. Same with the pork side ribs ($16.90 per half rack): they’re rubbed and smoked for four hours. Most items are served with the sauce on the side, rather than slathered on during the cooking process.
Like many successful pitmasters (including Barque’s David Neinstein), Rad is self-taught, and he does his smoking on a top-of-the-line Southern Pride machine. His wood of choice is hickory, but he’ll also use pecan, maple, cherry and oak. He uses a mishmash of southern U.S. barbecue styles.
“I don’t have to follow rules with barbecue,” he says. “Everyone has their own way of doing things.”
His 29-seat restaurant opened earlier this month after a “nightmare” four-month renovation, during which time the interior was mostly gutted (previously, the space was home to Gino’s Pizza). Now, Smoque N’ Bones is decked out in requisite reclaimed wood, exposed brick and filament bulbs.
Currently, the menu is anchored by ribs, brisket and pulled pork ($12.90 per half pound), but a SmoQue N Bones burger will be added to the menu next week.
