Smoque N' Bones

869 Queen St W,
Toronto, ON M6J 1G4
About the Restaurant

The life of a pitmaster can be a complicated one. The lengthy list of concerns can include any or all of the following: marinades, brines, injections, rubs, wood, fire, sauces, smoke and of course, meat. Just about everything involved is time-consuming. But Alex Rad, owner and chef of the newly opened SmoQue N Bones, is keeping things simple.

โ€œI like simplicity,โ€ he says. โ€œYou shouldnโ€™t complicate food too much.โ€

His beef brisket, for example ($14.90 per half pound), is rubbed with a classic spice mix (paprika, cayenne, brown sugar and other herbs) and then smoked for around 12 hours. No brines, no injections. Same with the pork side ribs ($16.90 per half rack): theyโ€™re rubbed and smoked for four hours. Most items are served with the sauce on the side, rather than slathered on during the cooking process.

Like many successful pitmasters (including Barqueโ€™s David Neinstein), Rad is self-taught, and he does his smoking on a top-of-the-line Southern Pride machine. His wood of choice is hickory, but heโ€™ll also use pecan, maple, cherry and oak. He uses a mishmash of southern U.S. barbecue styles.

โ€œI donโ€™t have to follow rules with barbecue,โ€ he says. โ€œEveryone has their own way of doing things.โ€

His 29-seat restaurant opened earlier this month after a โ€œnightmareโ€ four-month renovation, during which time the interior was mostly gutted (previously, the space was home to Ginoโ€™s Pizza). Now, Smoque N' Bones is decked out in requisite reclaimed wood, exposed brick and filament bulbs.

Currently, the menu is anchored by ribs, brisket and pulled pork ($12.90 per half pound), but a SmoQue N Bones burger will be added to the menu next week.

Published: May 14, 2014