Chinatowns across the country are facing threats to their vibrancy and cultural importance. One crucial way to protect them is by keeping the local businesses thriving.
To highlight the best eateries in Toronto’s Chinatown, we asked top chefs like Susur Lee and Shu Zhang to share their recommendations.
House of Gourmet, chosen by Katy Chan, chef and co-owner of Cafe Neon, Bar Neon, Blue Collar Bakery
House of Gourmet stands out as a go-to spot for a wide selection of Chinese cuisine, catering to all tastes and cravings. Boasting an extensive menu of more than 800 items, from traditional Cantonese dishes to Sichuan specialties, this bustling eatery has something for everyone. Its roots trace back to the Chen family, who have been helming the restaurant since 2005. “My cousin introduced me to this Hong Kong–style diner,” says Chan. “It’s comfort food for me.”
Insider Tip: “Order the young pea leaves with garlic sauce, congee with chicken and black mushrooms and the fried rice noodles with beef and black beansauce — I like the wide-format noodles,” says Chan. And to wash it down? “Red bean and coconut milk.”
Swatow chosen by Craig Wong, chef and owner at Patois and JunePlum
Swatow offers a bustling dining experience with quick service and generous portions. Open late, it’s ideal for a post-drinks meal, serving classic Chinese dishes, like lemon chicken and sweet and sour pork. “Make sure to grab a bit of the chili oil available on the table,” says chef Craig Wong. Despite its humble accommodations, it’s beloved by locals who appreciate its consistent quality and friendly service. Can-
tonese speakers can enjoy secret menu items, and the kitchen’s specialties include seafood dishes and sizzling platters.
Insider Tip: “A favourite dish is the beef and vegetable chow mein,” says Wong, and another of his go-tos is the off-menu deep fried shui gow (water dumplings). “It stands out from their pan-fried dumplings and shrimp wontons,” he says.
Banh Mi Nguyen Huong, chosen by Shu Zhang, chef at Bar Koukla
“In my opinion, this is the best banh mi in the city,” says Zhang. “Also amazing bang for your buck.” You’ll find it tough to match the value offered at this iconic Chinatown establishment, which has been serving up hundreds of sandwiches daily since the ’80s, priced between four and six dollars. In addition to sandwiches, the restaurant also offers fresh rice paper rolls and a selection of Vietnamese sweets. In 2011, the owners sons opened the incredibly popular restaurant Banh Mi Boys, pioneering the fusion of traditional and contemporary Banh Mi styles. Insider Tip:“I always get the as-sorted cold cut sandwich with extra pickle,” says Zhang. “They also have takeout-ready Vietnamese hams and cold dishes.”
Rol San, chosen by Colin Li, owner of Hong Shing
Chef Colin Li hailed it as “one of the best dim sum spots in Chinatown.” With such praise, it’s no surprise that Rol San has been a staple since 1994, satisfying diners with delicious Chinese cuisine. Rol San’s famous all-day dim sum menu is served until the early hours, ensuring a delicious meal whenever the craving hits. Rol San proves that you don’t have to be flashy. It’s always packed, especially on weekends, so expect a wait. With made-to-order dishes, including favourites like deep-fried taro puffs and baked milk tart, it offers a standout dining experience with fresh dim sum made and steamed right to your table.
Insider Tip: Chef Li says, it’s all about the dim sum, from turnip cakes and har gow to yeung chow fried rice and shrimp rice rolls —each dish more delicious than the last.
Taste of China, chosen by Susur Lee, owner and chef at Lee Restaurant
Chef Susur Lee’s go-to spot in Chinatown, Taste of China, continues to be a beloved haunt for late-night diners, drawing them in with its delicious Cantonese flavours and focus on fresh seafood. Dishes featuring fresh seafood, like deep-fried squid with garlic pepper, alongside classics such as braised duck with Peking sauce, never fail to impress. With its roots in Guangdong province, China, Taste of China owner
Ping Cham brings a taste of home to Toronto.
Insider Tip: “Make sure to ask if any special seafood arrived that day that is not on the menu,” says chef Nick Liu of DaiLo. “I have had live drunken prawns, xo, razor clams and raw geoduck.”