Unttld kicked things into gear on day four. Undoubtedly the day’s most successful collection — and likewise one of the strongest all week — designers José Manuel St-Jacques and Simon Bélanger had a hauntingly beautiful, all-black vision for fall.
As dissonant notes fell across the runway room, models traipsed out in what began as very minimalist looks: deceptively simple dresses with slightly relaxed fits and exposed backs. Masculine touches appeared with a luxurious take on the smoking jacket and a skirt fit with narrow suspenders that referenced classic suit trousers. Each piece felt incredibly refined and the cuts were impeccably done. The final looks grew in dark romanticism: a fur vest topped a chiffon dress with a fluttering hem; delicately shredded fabric with a touch of bruised blue anchored a simple top; column dresses in liquid fabric closed the show. It’s hard to make an all-black collection sing, but this one had one of the loudest voices around.
Up next was Soïa & Kyo, an outerwear label that we misunderstood to be ready-to-wear last season. Jeanne Beker — violently chewing gum — was one of the notables taking in the show from the front row. This time around, designer Ilan Elfassy presented a collection of highly wearable winter gear in slim silhouettes. For the ladies, a cream wool jacket with chocolate sleeves was a lengthier take on the perfecto, while a full-on butterscotch number for men offered a welcome pop of colour. Overall, everything was well-made and there were plenty of extra details (think quilted elbows and shoulders) adding up to a successful — if not particularly exciting — collection.
Due to the neighbourly timeslots, Rudsak, which is heavy on the outerwear, felt almost like an extension of S&K. More leather perfecto jackets with contrasting sleeves! Here they were shown in gold and, well, black, and some featured quilted details enhancing, well, shoulders. The best pieces were shot with fur: a wraparound number for the gals with quilted sleeves and, for the guys, a black leather number lined in matching fur. Again, a strong collection that showed us stuff that everybody likes.
Vawk brought high hopes, but unfortunately these were dashed. A full house saw Susan Langdon, Stacey McKenzie and Glen Dixon settle in, and following a brief film clip which ended with an ear drum-lacerating scream, the show began. Citing Scandinavian interior design and classic hunting gear as inspiration, Sunny Fong’s collection featured a dark palette shot with moss-green and off-white. Pieces didn’t seem to fit quite right, with buckling over the bustline evident and shoulders not fitting as snugly as one would’ve liked. Fong does drama well, but that seemed to be missing for the most part: a mossy green gown with cut-outs was a decent attempt, while shirts emblazoned with cartoony woodland creatures were an awkward side-step for the designer, and they felt gimmicky. Pieces featuring a sparse twiggy print — especially the men’s jacket — continued in a similarly lackluster vein. Where were the intricately stunning pieces from seasons past? The lack of standing ovation cemented the audience’s feelings. Next season we hope Fong’s back on track.
Up next: Caitlin Power and Travis Taddeo