As the fifth and final day of Fashion Week dawned, many greeted it with a sigh of relief, having reached their fashion fix of the season. Travis Taddeo saw folks piling into the studio space, and after incensed photographers yelled at someone obscuring their shots – in neon runners, but of course – the show began. The young Montreal-based designer put forth a edgy collection, which was influenced by Japonisme, along with a pinch of kink.
Black, grey and white dominated the colour scheme, with pops of royal blue and a silvery blue print appearing at the end (although this component seemed a bit tacked-on). We loved the gunmetal grey leather pieces for women: a tank cut high in the back, and an asymmetrical wrap-around skirt worn with a matching harness over loose jersey pieces. Twisted jersey dresses would be summertime staples were it not for the overly low cut at the hip, and we could have done without the rag-rug dresses. For men, we liked a black sleeveless coat done in a linen cotton and leather. Taddeo is one to watch.
Last time we caught Unttld, they were partaking in the Mercedes–Benz Fashion Week StartUp show; this season, designers José Manuel St-Jacques and Simon Bélanger were all on their own. Also located in Montreal, the team explored Japanese influences, citing haikus as the base for the collection. Beginning with a series of voluminous black looks done in a crepe – which, unfortunately, didn’t lend itself to such proportions, warping in odd places – the show progressed into more fitted silhouettes, where details were key. We liked the floor-length skirts featuring sheer horizontal panels along with a kimono-like jacket cut high in the back and edged with cotton straps. A series of pleated silk pieces done in a copper were breathtaking. As the show drew to an end, we agreed with their vision; the poeticism could indeed be felt in this darker and more introspective collection, and we look forward to seeing more from them.
Unttld
Sunny Fong’s double collection of Vawk and sister line Vawkkin were the big to-do of the night. We spotted Miss World Canada encased in her sash, as well as Suzanne Rogers, Nicholas Mellamphy and Stacey McKenzie taking up front-row seats. As a real-sized model trounced out, we knew it was the lower-priced line up first. Much like last season, the cuts were uninteresting and fabrics were subpar. We applaud Fong for trying to reach a greater audience, but much needs to be tweaked.
Vawk fared much better. The opening look (worn as Madonna’s “Justify My Love” was playing overhead) was an alluring black frock that crisscrossed the body, fluttering and flowing in all the right places. This woman was confident and knew her sexual power, as evidenced in many a plunging neckline and a golden update on the conical bra. The crowd ate it all up, and Fong skipped down the runway to cheers.
Vawk
Although the actual final show of the week was the American retailer Express, we eschewed it, opting to do something far more Canadian: ride the TTC. (Whatever happened to a Rad Hourani-like coup like we saw in spring? Our fingers are crossed for next time.)