OCEAN FRESH
BOULEVARD CAFE, 161 HARBORD ST.
“Ceviche” means fish marinated in citrus juice and flavoured with tomato, onion, chili and other veggies. During Claudio Aprile’s apprenticeship under chef Douglas Rodriguez, he sat for a 30-course ceviche tasting, with flavours as diverse as pear, mushroom and passion fruit.
“The one thing that carried through each ceviche was the control, how he manipulated acidity and salt, and there’s a lot of control happening in this one,” Aprile says of Boulevard Café’s white bass, shrimp and calamari ceviche. “The onion is cut large, so you’re getting the crunch, and the fish is just kissed with acidity and salt but isn’t completely overtaken by it.” Says Aprile, “Whoever did this knows what they’re doing.”
FIRST RUNNER-UP
Torito
Aprile approves of the authentic flavour of the corn and yam marinade from the Kensington Market tapas bar. The big chunks of fish spent limited time in the marinade, making them tender and succulent. Still, the dish can’t match the lightness of Boulevard’s. Price: $10
276 Augusta Ave.
SUCCULENT SHRIMP
Frida
Aprile had heard good things about Frida’s lime-marinated shrimp, scallop and mussel ceviche and is impressed by chef Hadad’s attention to detail. “This is proper. The shrimps are, well.… Feel that: not overcooked.” Still, not as memorable as Boulevard’s or Torito’s.
999 Eglinton Ave. W. Price: $16
SHELL SHOCK
Milagro
“Not enough acidity,” says Aprile of Milagro’s shrimp, crab and octopus ceviche. “It looks like they threw in some crab, but it looks like frozen crab, which I’d never put in a ceviche … and the shrimp.… Feel that: it’s as tough as nails. Overcooked.”
3187 Yonge St. Price: $11.50, lunch size
SOMETHING FISHY
Cava
Cava’s smoked kingfish ceviche misses the mark with Aprile. “It’s grey, it’s old … like someone that took all their trim, or a crappy piece of fish they couldn’t sear, chopped it up, threw [in] a bunch of old ingredients,” says Aprile. “There’s still skin on here from the fish.”