Walking into Cowbell, one is greeted by a neighbourhood restaurant packed with good food-loving locals and foodies from about town. Just listening to our neighbours at adjoining tables express such satisfaction with what they ordered set the tone for our evening.
We began with the charcuterie platter, a delight to the eye and, as it turned out, to my palate as well.
I could not wait to taste everything on the platter. I began with the lardo, a creamy indulgence that I spread on the crunchy crust of the restaurant’s own bread.
Next, I tasted the melt in your mouth fat of the crispy crusted pork belly, served with the pickled baby leeks. I could not get enough of these morsels.
But, there was more: thin slices of testina (jowl), thinly sliced "gin and tonic" veal salumi, thin slices of tongue, thinly sliced miso beef — just one wonderful taste after another as I mixed in one with dijon mayo and another with a chunk of cornichon or the pickled beet.
My next course was wonderfully tender and rare slices of very flavourful red angus beef, slices of the restaurant’s own beefy sausage and smokey tasting kale — all mounted on creamy polenta. The combination was a terrific mix of earthy flavours!
Finally, a rustic maple chomeur in a browned butter soaked batter crust, with pieces of poached pear and raisons.
This was all true comfort food and so satisfying. Listening to more of the happy comments from nearby diners, it seems that everyone was impressed with the highly appetizing presentations of each dish. Chef Mark Cutrara, in my opinion, is certainly one of the most talented chefs in Toronto.
Cowbell – 1564 Queen Street West (416) 849-1095
Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.