Koji Zenimaru may be a relative latecomer to Toronto’s ramen scene, but what he lacks in timeliness he makes up for in dedication. In researching noodles for Ramen Isshin, his new restaurant on College Street, Zenimaru spent six months tasting different varieties — around 900, in total — before finally settling on two. That’s right, 900 types of noodles.

For Toronto food-types, Zenimaru is probably best known for bringing Vancouver’s acclaimed Kingyo Izakaya to Toronto in 2012. He’s now expanded with this new 40-seat ramen house, which officially opened at the end of December.

Zenimaru — who has been working in restaurants since he was 16 years old — oversees the menu. His ramen is mostly tonkotsu-based, but he also does a vegetarian broth made from vegetables and kelp. Ramen Isshin College Street's roasted garlic ramen ($8.95) is seasoned with homemade soy sauce and roasted garlic oil, while the spicy tan-tan ramen comes with whole black sesame seeds and a mortar and pestle for custom seasoning.

Fans of Kingyo won’t find many similarities between the two menus, though Zenimaru says that Isshin’s chicken karaage ($4.80) is nearly identical to the one found at Kingyo. Other non-ramen snacks include takoyaki (deep-fried globules of octopus, $4.20) and Japanese-inspired poutine ($5.20) with fries, curry gravy and seaweed.

Published: Jan 30, 2014