A trio of intellectual, first-time restaurateurs have come together to launch Pho Vistro, a new Vietnamese restaurant on Queen West, and they have focused on a “clean eating” concept.

Dat Nguyen is the former publisher of the Thoi Bao Vietnamese Newspaper, Quang Nguyen is a technology-based engineer and Dr. Hoanh Nguyen is a physician who sits on various medical boards in the city. And, no, these Nguyens are not related.

As well as a shared surname and connections through various Vietnamese community groups, the three bonded over a mutual love and appreciation for their heritage cuisine.

“We are making the food that we want to eat,” Dr. Hoanh suggested during their recent media launch. He and his wife developed the pho broth recipe together.

The 34-seat dining room, designed by Fraser Designs also has a warmth and aesthetic intention that’s not typically found in your neighbourhood pho joint. Warm wood tones, high-top tables, exposed brick, Edison bulbs and travel photographs catch the eye. Raw ingredient displays highlight the whole spices used in Pho Vistro’s signature broth.

The pho broth is crafted by slow cooking beef bones for 36 hours along with vitamin-rich herbs and spices like fennel seed, large stick cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, star anise, cloves and cilantro. Chicken and vegan broths are also on offer.

"I wanted to make a truly healthy pho soup that was also delicious,” Dr. Hoanh says.

"It is very rare to find a pho restaurant that can say their menu features zero-MSG, as well as, no peanuts. We also take pride in our fresh organic ingredients and vegan options for almost everything on the menu.”

Soy paste and hoisin sauce are mixed to form a peanut-less "peanut sauce" for their fried spring rolls, which are stuffed with a vegetable medley or minced chicken. Vegan fresh rolls are served alongside a pureed kale sauce.

Protein-rich starters include fall off the bone braised beef ribs with a savoury Vietnamese glaze and crispy lemongrass marinated Ontario chicken wings (gluten free), with a sweet Canadian maple syrup dipping sauce. No pork is on the menu.

Their dry pho is a cross between a salad, a slaw and a bowl of pho. Freshly steamed pho rice noodles are topped and tossed with vegetables, beef, chicken or tofu, and a special soy sauce with caramelized onions, then served with a bowl of pho broth – dip, pour over or sip on the side at will.

“The idea came out of practicality,” admits Quang. “Some people just want pho on the go or takeout, but they don't want to deal with transporting liquid (the broth).

Quang is hoping to change the common perception of Vietnamese food in Toronto, and cement Pho Vistro as the healthiest pho restaurant in town.

"We all wanted to bring quality back to making pho,” he says. “In the same way, we want to use the pho restaurant to highlight the beauty of Vietnamese culture.

Published: Dec 29, 2016