Masseria, the name of King West’s new quick service pizzeria, is a southern Italian word that refers to a communal dining hall where workers and their families gather to break bread. The menu offers pizzas, salads and sandwiches and is meant to be fast, modern and casual, a sort of elevated pizza eating experience akin to that of Pizzeria Libretto or Queen Margherita Pizza.
They’ve enlisted Rob Leclair, the former executive chef at Fabbrica and executive sous chef for Icon Hospitality, to lead the kitchen. Leclair has been a “champion pizza eater” since his brother gave him the sticker for his Bobby Orr lunchbox many years ago. Having grown up in Georgian Bay, Leclair’s earliest memories of pizza involved hopping into the family car and driving into “town” – Midland, Ontario to Mamma Maria’s.
When asked what he loved so much about pizza, Leclair says “it’s beautiful, simple and you can eat it with your hands.”
The style of pizza at Masseria is similar to but not exactly like a Neopolitan pizza. His proprietary pizza dough formula ensures that you can eat the whole slice without folding it or having to “chase toppings around the plate.”
His technique is all about proper hand-stretching of the dough and even distribution of the toppings.
Some pies may look burnt, but that is Masseria’s charcoal-infused dough, which was inspired by Leclair’s trip to Japan, the land of the Burger King squid ink bun, among other gimmicky food offerings. The charcoal crust doesn’t add much in the flavor compartment, though it “adds to the structure” and “makes [the dough] a little lighter.”
Among the pizza offerings at Masseria, you can choose from their signature pizzas ranging from $14 to $20. The Boscaiolo ($20) which is topped with portobello and oyster mushrooms, caramelized onion, pecorino and truffle oil is a great non-tomato option, also known as a “white pizza.” Those who are fussy about toppings can also opt for the “create your own” option. You can get a gluten-free dough at Masseria for an extra $3. They also offer a pizza of the day, which is meant to showcase seasonal ingredients and also a way for Leclair to break out his “whimsical” side.
Those looking for something a little lighter can feast on a salad. There’s a kale caesar ($11) and the Masseria ($11), an heirloom tomato salad topped with croccantini, a type of dehydrated red pepper that has the crunch of potato chips or (strangely enough) pork crackling.
Sandwiches, or panini, are of the Prosciutto, Tuna and Sopppresatta variety, and each ring in at $9.50. There will also be a sandwich of the day available at the restaurant.
Beverage offerings are comprised of San Pellegrino flavored sparklings such as Limonata and Aranciata Rossa and a peculiar drink called Lemoncocco ($4) that is apparently very popular in Italy. It is, as its name suggests, made from lemon and coconut water. Wine comes by the five-ounce pour and the selection features classic Italian pinot grigio and Barbaresco. A healthy mix of local beer (Lost Craft, Mill Street Organic) and imports (Peroni, Stella) are available by the can.
Masseria has a communal table at the front that would be perfect to plop down and sip on a cappuccino ($4) while people watching through their large windows.
When asked if there is such a thing as a “wrong” topping to put on a pizza, Leclair states that the Italians “cry bloody sacrilege when they see pineapple on a pizza.” I guess a Hawaiian won’t be on offer anytime soon.
Published: Oct 11, 2016
