In a world where rustic Italiana rules the city, and the likes of French onion soup and coq au vin are from when dinosaurs walked the earth, La Palette is a charming throwback. Yes, you can still make us happy with great lashings of butterfat — in unctuous sauce on pasta, in the compound butter on the steak with sweet frites. There are the usual bistro stalwarts of confit and pâté, foie gras and escargots. It’s unclear how slow-cooked venison ribs in perfectly judged barbecue sauce are French, but they taste great. The room is classic inexpensive bistro all the way, from the Provençal print tablecloths to the paper napkins. La Palette is the perfect place to play Parisian and indulge in a bottle of wine while you watch the Queen Street passersby.