Cold Tea was nearly a self-parody staple of Kensington Market: a dingy bar with a semi-secret entrance and loud industry patio cookouts in the summer. The owners, having outgrown the legal headaches of the tailgate party atmosphere, have transformed the space into a slick restaurant with the requisite high chairs and neon lights. Partnering with restaurateur Leemo Han (Hanmoto, Pinky’s Ca Phe), the bar now serves up Han’s brand of elegantly delicious messes — brined, grilled and fried wings covered in tart green goop; variations on the sloppy joe and McChicken; and ice cream sandwiches rolled in tiny, puffy rice balls. Regulars have no need to worry. Cold Tea hasn't gotten too fancy for the summer Sunday barbecue series.