Toronto’s caffeinated set were given a jolt of a different variety in August when they heard a Slayer — the “coolest espresso machine on the planet” — would soon be taking up permanent residence in Toronto.
THOR Espresso Bar (35 Bathurst St. at Niagara) opens its doors officially this Wednesday, Nov. 17, but on Friday owners Patrick Tu and Tom Junek gave us a sneak peek at the $16,000 machine — number 77 in the world — in operation.
Unlike your standard espresso machine, which uses constant pressure to drive water through the scoop of espresso, the Slayer features manual paddles that allow the barista to use different pressures throughout the shot. What does that mean? Different flavours and complexities depending on the type of pull.
According to Tu, it’s the only such machine in Toronto.
THOR Espresso Bar will offer only one type of shot, but it’s hard not to imagine the possibilities: If you’ve got a loose cannon of a barista — neck tattoo, crazy eyes — he might punch the paddle to the full nine bars before backing off as the shot ends. A more gun-shy coffee snob — bangs over eyes, turtleneck, dog-eared The Waste Land in the back pocket of his Nudies — might languish at three bars for ages, then nudge up to nine before pulling back to zero in a sweat.
Junek and Tu say they have tried different variations, and determined that their formula will be to start with a pre-brew of three bars of pressure for fifteen seconds, which heats and infuses the grounds and brings out more nuances, then punch it to the full nine bars for the duration of the pull.
Tu pulled two different shots for us: the formula described above and a standard shot (push to nine immediately, back off to zero). While
our coffee palate is amateur at best, we noticed a far more robust flavour in the THOR method — a more noticeable chocolate-y taste, and hints of cherry and wood that weren’t present in the standard method.
Tu calls THOR Espresso Bar’s design vibe “Scandinavian,” but aside from the giant mural of the Norse god Thor holding a tamper instead of a hammer, we weren’t totally sure what that meant. In any event, it’s a cool space — all white walls, light wood and concrete — that will be mostly about take-away since there’s only space for about 10 people to sit comfortably.
By Malcolm Johnston
Published: November 16, 2010
