From the owners of the midtown diner Uncle Betty’s comes Tio’s Urban Mexican, a restaurant just a few doors down from its older brother. The space was formerly occupied by Fish Street Market & Open Kitchen.
Owners Samara Nelson and Robert Lewocz, who also own Uncle Betty’s, brought on Ramzey Trabelsi, a long-time front of house staff member at Uncle Betty’s and the three co-own Tio’s Urban Mexican. Robert and Samara left the ad agency and movie production business and decided to become restaurateurs because there was “no place to take our kids to eat” in midtown Toronto, says Lewocz.
The strip of Yonge between Eglinton and Lawrence is pretty devoid of any upscale, ethnic cuisine options.
Skirt steak tacos (IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)
“We wanted to bring something fun and approachable to the neighborhood,” says Lewocz. Currently in the works is a kid-friendly menu that will feature quirky luchadors because “we’re wrestlers ourselves,” he says in reference to their decision to open up Tio’s.
Tio’s Urban Mexican seats 41 and a small patio may be in the cards provided the proper permits are obtained.
Grilled Corn ($13) (IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)
In Tio’s Urban Mexican’s kitchen, they’ve enlisted Marcos Sanchez, most recently the executive chef at the now-shuttered Reforma. Sanchez is a native of Mexico City, though his culinary inspiration comes from a trip he took at 18, where he travelled to over 30 cities and towns with his abuelita (grandmother) and soaked in all the different regional styles and techniques.
His menu is a mix of composed and family-style dishes, meant to cater to the local demographic of young families. Tacos ($12 – $18) come with onions and cilantro on the side so that adults and kids alike can enjoy. Portions are plentiful; an order of tacos comes in fours and packs on a healthy 7 ounces of protein.
Churros with cajeta crema (IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)
“I like to take food and elevate it,” says Sanchez who draws inspiration from elsewhere and incorporates it into his dishes. Such is the case with his take on tacos al pastor in the form of a pork chop. “If it’s not on a spit, I don’t want to do it,” says Sanchez about not serving his beloved tacos al pastor as they do back home. His Pork Chop al Pastor ($30) goes through a 3-day marinating process that includes achiote (annatto seeds), pineapple, orange juice and Sprite. The dish is topped with a pineapple chutney and an unlikely match of poblano/jalapeno and cilantro gnocchi.
Another rare sighting on the menu is the Bone Marrow Aztec Soup ($15), which is a simple broth with hominy served with a healthy hunk of bone marrow. Those looking for something a little more familiar can bite into a crunchy Tinga Taro Tostada ($18) topped with braised chicken, crema, pickled onions, salsa verde and refried beans.
If you have room for dessert, you can dip into churros ($8), done beignet-style which are lighter and fluffier than usual. This is served with a cajeta crema.
Pork Chop al Pastor (IMAGE: YVONNE TSUI)
Once the liquor licence kicks in (in about 2 weeks), Tio’s Urban Mexican will offer up classic drinks that are tequila-based such as their Tio’s TnT (tequila + tonic) and Golden Kiwi Martini. The beer list will feature Mexican beers: Modelo and Corona in addition to a healthy mezcal/tequila offering and a Spanish wine list. For now you can sip on array of Jarrito’s Mexican soda flavors from tamarind to pineapple.
Published on: Jun 2, 2016