The Good Son - Queen West
Toronto, ON M6J 1H9
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Chef Vittorio Colacitti has an unusually varied resume. Heโs done fine dining (at George, Lucien and Didier); heโs done corporate gigs (he was a chef with Loblaws); heโs done pizza (at Pizzeria Via Mercanti and in Italy) and heโs done television (he was on season four of Top Chef Canada). Now heโs doing his own thing with The Good Son, his new restaurant on Queen West.
โItโs Toronto cuisine,โ Colacitti says. โIt focuses on balance. Itโs seasonally driven and locally driven as much as possible.โ
The Good Son takes over the space formerly occupied by Nyood, the erstwhile supper club, and it officially opened on June 11. The menu, which is designed for sharing, is split into four parts: cold, hot, wood (as in from the wood-fired oven) and pizza. Colacitti takes cues from many cultures: his potato-wrapped shrimp ($13) are seasoned with jerk spices and served with a Thai-inspired mango salad, while his steak tartare ($19) is a direct homage to the French cooking from Didier.
Pizzas ($15-$19) are a hybrid between Neapolitan-style and Roman-style, which means theyโre slightly thicker and crispier than something youโd find at Pizzeria Libretto, and theyโre cooked for a bit longer at a lower temperature.
The interior is plastered with antiques: old clocks line one wall, plates line another and mismatched chairs are scattered throughout. And yes, there is exposed brick, filament bulbs and reclaimed wood.
โWe want to get away from that supper club feel,โ Colacitti says. โThis is just a restaurant.โ
But it's a little bit more than that: at the entrance, thereโs a pantry that sells imported grocery items (such as tea and olive oil), and upstairs, a sister venue to be known as Wayward prepares for its opening later this summer.
Published on: Jun 12, 2014