Toronto’s east side has pretty much always lagged behind the west in terms of culinary development, but a tide of new and upcoming restaurants is slowly balancing the scales. The latest newcomer is The Forth, and it’s no small contribution. Located above the National Bank at Pape and Danforth, it’s a multi-level, 8,000 square-foot space that seats 160. And although it’s in the heart of Greektown, it’s not a Greek restaurant.
The Forth is the project of chef Chris Kalisperas and his investors, The Signature Group. Kalisperas was previously the executive chef at King West’s Brassaii, and before that, he was Bruce Woods’ sous chef at Centro. At The Forth, he has been given complete creative control, and the result is a restaurant that serves “contemporary Canadiana,” as Kalisperas puts it. Mostly, this means food that’s sourced locally (or at least within the country) and seasonally.
The menu at The Forth is split into snacks, appetizers, mains and sharing plates for two. Octopus ($12) is cooked sous-vide with red wine and chilis for around four hours, then seared to order. It comes with popcorn — as in the stuff Orville Redenbacher used to make — and a popcorn puree. Steelhead trout from B.C. is cured in citrus, salt and sugar for around four hours, then garnished with radish, citrus segments, fennel, candied ginger, cilantro, pickled chilies and trout roe.
For something more hearty, there’s a rack of lamb for two ($75), which sees Ontario lamb ribs marinated for a day in olive oil, garlic and rosemary, then cooked sous vide for around 40 minutes before hitting being roasted. It’s served with yogurt, chimichurri and spring vegetables (including fava beans and morels, for now).
Like the food, the wine and the beer are mostly local, and the java is from Toronto’s Pilot Coffee Roasters.
Published on: May 29, 2014
