Chef Paul Boehmer takes the local and sustainable ethos about as far as anyone in town for his namesake restaurant. When the first fiddleheads of spring poke their noses above the melting snow, they’re on his menu. Wild leeks and fresh morels appear in his dishes, jazzing up his complex and ambitious mains. Boehmer is at his best cooking meat. He braises, stuffs, roasts and broils, turning out fork-tender venison, rich juicy rabbit and pink ’n’ pretty Ontario lamb. The menu changes with the season, but panna cotta for dessert is not to be missed. Coconut panna cotta with passion fruit gelée takes Ossington to the tropics in a very sexy way. As for the room, on a street where small and cosy is the usual way, this room is tall and grand and achingly beautiful, thanks to reclaimed wood sculptures and twinkling lights.
