I have been coming to this classic cart-service restaurant since the tables at the back were filled with old men holding chopsticks in one hand, a cigarette in the other. It hasn’t changed much. Large families with hyperactive children are still seated on the dais. There’s always a lineup after 11:30 a.m. on the weekend. And carts still rumble between tables, waiters occasionally pausing to lift lids on bamboo steamers filled with char siu bao (barbecue pork buns), har gow (shrimp dumplings) and cheung fun (rice noodle rolls). As options glide past you, it’s always a race to see if you will find your favourite dish before you fill up on noodles, pan-fried dumplings or lo bak go (turnip cakes).
