THERE IS A block on the east side of Mt. Pleasant, between Eglinton and Davisville, that is becoming a restaurant mecca — lucky Leaside and Davisville Village.
Opened a few months ago, Boland’s has an outstanding pedigree, having been named for the owner and chef Chris Boland (he who opened Trappers, Telfer’s and the Tasting Room).
Shortly after we are seated, the owner himself stops by to explain that his menu takes note of health and portion issues without sacrificing flavour or culinary intrigue. He is right.
The menu is blessedly brief and new each day, beginning in the loveliest of ways. Each diner receives two amuse bouches in ceramic spoons. Tonight the treats are salmon salad with capers and sirloin with whipped blue cheese.
And… we are off!
Details are respected here: a small basket of sliced baguette (white and whole wheat) is first rate, and we are asked if we prefer oil or butter — a first.
From the list of six appetizers, the shrimp, jump-fried in olive oil and garlic with Ontario hot house tomatoes, are fresh and plentiful, and the garlic is assertive, but it arrives tepid ($9). Ontario beef steak tomato salad is art on a plate.
Thick layers of uber-fresh tomatoes are interlaced with slices of sugar-sweet watermelon. The whole is sprinkled with feta cheese, dressed with a red wine vinaigrette and blanketed with slivers of fresh basil ($9).
Mixed results in the main course department.
Slow roasted top sirloin with garlic mash and Pommery mustard sauce gets just an average grade. Ordered medium, it comes rare.We all know that sirloin is not filet mignon, but this piece has an undue amount of gristle. Full marks, though, for the savoury sauce ($21).
The halibut has been prepared with love. Seared, virtually without oil, the freshness of the fish is showcased and then highlighted with a schmear of black olive tapenade.It sits on a bed of this year’s darling carb — quinoa — prepared pilaf style and strewn with green beans, raisins and roasted hazelnuts.
A definite wow and a fabulous value at $24 (the most expensive dish on the menu, I might add).
Dessert choices are limited and we are full, but in the interest of science, we must try at least one.
Lemon curd with vanilla spiked cream and shortbread crumble is served in a martini glass. The concoction is layered with three-quarters intense lemon custard, topped by onequarter whipped cream. The use of actual shortbread as a topping instead of streusel or graham wafer crumbs is inspired.
A knighthood for the pastry chef ($8)!
Boland’s formula is simple: delicious food, priced right, in a comfortable environment.
