People's Republic of Pasta Hits Midtown

Appetizers soar at Prop

LITTLE ITALY LANDMARK Giancarlo’s Trattoria and Bar is going strong, so the owner has packed up the pasta and ventured north to St.Clair Avenue to open Prop.

We choose,on this hot summer night,to dine outside. The interior is minimalist chic so a seat under the stars is the more tempting choice.

First, the name. I ask two servers and receive a puzzled shrug: “People’s Republic of Pasta?”

Apparently, that is the case. Before we dig into the menu, a truly divine bread with fruity olive oil arrives at the table. I am more than over the mandatory balsamic vinegar drizzle and delight in the purity of this dip.

I’m pleased that this menu is not the same old, same old. The appetizer offerings are inspired and, save for one, are all priced in the single digits. Such dishes as crostini with garlic rich rapini ($8) and grilled sardines stuffed with herbs ($9) catch my eye, and I nearly give in to orange and fennel salad, but I long for something from the sea.

The shrimp on crostini with shrimps, butter, olive oil and chili flakes ($9) glisten not only with the olive/butter glaze, but are graced by a coating of chopped garlic.

Risky? Sure, in other hands it could be too aggressive, but the flavour has been softened by the precise sautéing over slow heat and is balanced by a healthy squeeze of lemon.

The grilled polenta with sautéed cremini and porcini mushrooms ($8) exceeds all expectations. The cornmeal base has been well grilled to a crusty exterior without sacrificing any creaminess that lurks within. A generous dollop of mixed wild mushrooms sits atop, offering some earthy warmth.

Pastas and proteins make up the main course options. Prop’s chef really pushes the envelope with offerings such as rigatoni in a creamy saffron and lemon sauce and fusilli with cauliflower,raisins and anchovies, which tickle my taste imagination.

Spaghetti carnevale is impossible to ignore — ginger, black mission figs and black peppercorn! It almost works.The figs are outstanding and the ginger is a fine complement, albeit a tad dry.

Grilled herb crusted salmon completes our meal. I love that it is a tad under the cooking norm for Toronto. The topping is another story; it is visually appealing, but it turns out to be heavy on crushed black peppercorns. Too heavy, really.… scrape,scrape.

A rotation of pleasant waitresses comes by now and again,but none seem fully committed to the table. There are always smiles,but water is not refilled,and familiarity with the food needs improvement.

Two of the desserts are made in house. Zuppa inglese doesn’t match the description and is actually remarkably similar to the ubiquitous tiramisù ($8). And I’m OK with that.

The evening is enjoyable, and I will likely return, but Prop does need a little fine tuning. When mains match the starters, it will have fulfilled its potential.

CHEQUE PLEASE
Prop
770 St.Clair Ave.W.,416-792-3313
Dinner for two,excluding tax,tip and alcohol
$70
(Three out of five stars)

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