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Olive my love: how to find outstanding olives

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Mehmet Uzel is as close as it comes to an olive evangelist. From a town in northern Turkey that prides itself on growing the world’s best, he moved to Toronto to expand his family’s olive empire, believing the city’s diverse population would help him tap into an olive-loving culture.

He appears to have been right. When his quite literally-named Olive and Olive Oil store on Jones Avenue proved successful, Uzel opened a second location mere blocks away on Danforth Avenue. Brazenly called The Best Olives in the World, the store sells about a dozen varieties of Gemlik olives, Turkish olive oil and Iranian pistachios.

“All of Europe knows, everybody knows, that Gemlik olives are best,” he tells us, brushing off suggestions that moving to Canada to open an olive store was a bold move. “I didn’t listen to anyone, I knew it would be fine. I am an olive expert.”

To be fair, Uzel’s not far off when he gloats about his wares’ supremacy. His olives are meaty, delicious and uniquely seasoned.

But how to tell? Uzel admits it can be hard to tell a good olive from its sheen and offers these tips for choosing the best batch of cocktail companions.

1. Ask how the olives have been marinated. Olives made in the traditional method sit in salt water for many months, while lesser olives are treated with chemicals to hasten the process. Uzel says chemical preservatives can damage the olive’s flavour.

2. Seek out flat spots on the sides of the olives. These show the olives have spent a lengthy period being pressed inside a brine barrel.

3. Steer clear of bruises. While the flat spots are good signs, avoid any olives that appear visibly bruised or discoloured. Bruising increases acidity in olives, which makes them less pleasant to eat, says Uzel.

4. If choosing black olives, find out if they’ve ripened on the tree. If so, they will have will have more flavour than those picked while still green.

5. Choose olives that have been stored in glass. Avoid metal or plastic, which can transfer unwanted flavours to food contained inside.

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