Locals were taken by surprise recently when stalwart Mel’s Diner closed the doors of its prime location corner biz on Bloor, just blocks from Bathurst. More surprising, perhaps, was the restaurant that’s taken its place: Hey Lucy Café.
(Hey Lucy is a name many of us know from a first location down on King Street, although most know not its mandate or menu—its location catering more to out-of-towners and theatre-goers.)
What a renovation! Looking around from a banquette, wooden chair or stool, it’s hard to remember the original space. A handful of dramatic design elements—elaborate chandeliers, a wall of refurbished wood slats, zebra fabric upholstery—punctuate the room of exposed brick, hardwoods, brushed metals and tin ceiling. Flames flicker and dance from within the prominent wood oven at back.
Wood oven–cooked victuals are a focus on the reasonably priced, comfort-focused lunch menu too, with just about everything (salads, pastas, paninis, wraps, calzones, and of course wood-fired pizzas) making fine fodder for bambinos.
While there aren’t any set pizzas to choose from at lunch (save for one special, on this day salami and purple onion), a long list of toppings divided into two price categories ($1.50, $2.50) cater to control freaks and preschooling picky eaters. From classic to classy, the list covers such ground as roasted red peppers, portobello mushrooms, grilled zucchini, artichokes, sliced potato, sun-dried tomatoes, sliced bocconcini, sausage and roast chicken.
Calzone fillings mirror the pizza ingredient list. The Double Smoked Florentine ($11) wraps double-smoked bacon, roast chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, mozz and spinach in a round-ish bundle that’s more pastry than folded-over pizza dough. The filling—albeit flavourful—isn’t evenly distributed, so one half of the calzone tastes of mild cheese and chicken and the other overpowers with sun-dried tomatoes and bacon. Adding visual interest is a small ladle-full of homemade tomato sauce spread prettily on the plate.
Pizza dough stands in for tortilla in Hey Lucy’s wraps, resulting in a moister and bulkier assembly. One rolls up tender diced flatiron beef with sautéed purple onion and spinach, roasted red pepper strips and a trio of cheeses (asiago, romano and parmesan), served halved and speared with a prickly-topped toothpick ($9). Although the wrap isn’t too filling for lunch (vegetable balances meat), little hands might struggle with the size.
Fresh diced cucumbers and tomatoes punctuate a mixed greens side salad, enlivened by a back-to-basics vinaigrette of balsamic and olive oil. Indulgers opt instead for a side of parsley-peppered fries, expertly deep-fried but heavily salted.
An efficient but tight-lipped server works the room. More entertaining, especially for tikes, are the shows on the side-by-side flat-screens behind the mirrored bar.
Good fruit juices act as jet fuel for junior. Saucier for seniors is an extensive alcoholic drinks list ($3.99 martinis on Wednesdays!).
High chairs available. No steps at entrance. Stairs to bathrooms.
440 Bloor Street West
416-967-9670
