IF THERE WERE a universal mission statement for the craft of wine writing, the first sentence would be: The primary responsibility is to advocate for the consumer. The next would be: Search out wines that are the best value in their price range.The goal is to find wines that punch above their weight, that is, they deliver great quality for the price. This does not necessarily mean that recommended wines should be less than $10. I get to taste a lot of wines at all price levels,and just as there are some clunkers at $9.95, there is also a lot of indifferent wine at three times the price.
For this month’s column, I have selected five wines that meet the criteria of great value for the price.
Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois White 2008 (Vintages #665166, $17.45) is a California wine in spite of its French name. The pun is based on the three grapes that make up the blend (the winery name is based on the ultimate realization of the two psychiatrists who created it — that the wine business is a hazardous one.There is a time-honoured joke: “Question: ‘How do you make a small fortune in the wine business?’ Answer: You start with a large one.’”) This is a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc with Italian Muscato, a sort of homage to Caymus Conundrum but less costly. The wine is pale straw in colour with a fragrant bouquet of orange blossom and peach. It’s medium-bodied, off-dry with a spicy melon and orange flavour, clean as a whistle.An ideal wine for quaffing, lightly chilled, on the patio or for serving with Thai or Chinese dishes.
Domaine des Charmilles Sancerre 2008 (Vintages #182915, $21.95). Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc has a different taste profile than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This wine is light straw in colour with a nose of elderberries and freshly cut grass. Those flavours, along with tart gooseberries, are replicated on the palate making this bone-dry wine lively and fresh. An ideal wine for seafood.
Monte Antico Toscana 2006 (Vintages #69377, $15) is a Chianti (Sangiovese) with 10 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 per cent Merlot blended in.The colour is dense purple with a nose of black cherries and currants. The fruit is very expressive and well structured; the tannins are soft and supple;and the finish savoury. A wine for tomato-based pastas or beef dishes.
Bodegas Patrocinio Senorios de Unuela Reserva 2001 (Vintages #172536, $16.95). This is an old- style Rioja red with some bottle age. Deep ruby in colour, it has abouquet of strawberries andsandalwood.The American oak sits lightly on the spicy fruit refreshed by the acidity.Serve it with lamb.
Anvers Brabo Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008 (Vintages #686657,$16.95).This full-bodied blend from South Australia has been made for early drinking. Its dense purple colour is evidence of great fruit extraction. On the nose you get aromas of black fruits with an herbal note. The palate offers sweet spicy blackberry and blackcurrant flavours with nicely integrated oak.Match it with steak or barbecued ribs.
