Jamie Kennedy just keeps getting better, if that is even possible as he is already so knowledgeable.
I could use all the current catchwords: locavore, sustainable, seasonal, but none would do justice to Jamie Kennedy’s current sensibilities.
He has gone back to the basics.
For those of you who have not made it to Michael Stadtländer’s fabulous Haisai or Eiginsinn Farm, the thematic experience and Chef Kennedy’s sensibilities have similarities. And, neither one was the inspiration for the other. Early on, both Kennedy and Stadtländer assumed their direction from shared beginnings.
Chef Kennedy is passionate about what he does. He is passionate and proud about the origins, freshness and flavour of his products and sources. He is also passionate about the day in, day out quality and perfection of the prep work, often seen to be a drudge by so many other chefs.
With products from the farm or the water he creates simplicity in both presentation and flavours.
But, from my perspective, a very sophisticated simplicity of perfection such as expressed in his glazes and sauces. During a recent dinner, he and his senior staff plated in front of all the guests… his deft, slow, assured movements were like an artist and dancer in motion – filled with grace and concentration.
This is what he gave us:
Duck chawanmushi with wild ginger and cattail heart. It was such a marvelous, simple beginning inspired by the Japanese suspension of ingredients in an egg custard.
Spring salad followed, with brunoise of wild leek, sliced radish, croutons, local lettuces and arugula with an "Easter egg" radish yogurt dressing.
Our next dish was crisp battered but tender, fresh perch fillets with a very low and slow cooked onion soubise flavoured with a bit of thyme and lots of good freshly churned butter. The soubise was drizzled with beet juice and everything was mounted on poached sorrel leaves.
Everyone mopped their plates to get the very last of this wonderful sauce that possessed such a great combination of flavours.
The beef tenderloin on Pommes Anna was served with sautéed brown thin slices of sweet and yukon gold potatoes. The beef was mounted on a rich intense beef jus and horse radish béchamel. It was surrounded by a slightly tart lovage ravigote that cut the richness in a way that made one appreciate this dish all the more.
Finally, a wonderful rich, dark, warm chocolate cake surrounded by summer fruits in rum and topped with in-house rich vanilla ice cream was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal.
Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.