I am well aware that, in Our Town, to suggest that Emperor Jamie Kennedy has no clothes is heresy. Nonetheless, I am obliged to provide you with the truth. Gilead is no big deal.
Having heard it spoken of only in reverential, hushed tones, my expectations are substantial. This café which is located down a residential laneway gives us the sense that we are on a treasure hunt. Two frantic cell calls and we are in. Quick background: in the days when Kennedy’s empire spanned most of the downtown area, this was a breakfast/lunch café. Now that he has downsized, Gilead morphs in the evenings into a petite and welcoming bistro.
It is soul chillingly freezing tonight and the hand-written menu is appropriately entitled Winter 2010. This is not a salad evening; this is an evening for heavy, sticky food so I naturally leap at the Crispy Confit of Pork Belly with Cider Apples. It is stellar – correctly crispy on the outside as befits any confit and meltingly succulent as meat and fat lusciously become one entity. The sweet/tart apples have been rendered to a syrupy consistency and are a perfect foil for the rich meat. $11.
Almost as good is the Brioche Toast with Soubise and Mushrooms which presents as crusty home-made slice of brioche over which a mixture of mushrooms cascades, blanketed by a classic soubise (onion and béchamel sauce). $11.
Had we come for appetizers only, this dinner would be a success. The listings of main courses are appropriate for the season: stews; coq au vin, pork ragout are all tempting.
Having said that, I cannot resist Gratin of Pec Nord Scallops and this is the point at which the music dies. This is, in effect, that old French classic Coquille St. Jacques. Served in a half shell, it is traditionally made of scallops in a white wine cream sauce, hemmed in by piped mashed potatoes. If you are going to tinker with a classic, it is not enough to name the geographical source and add the roe, which is often overlooked. These bivalves have, for some reason, been chopped and cooked to rubber. The roe is just another tough nugget, albeit a red one. $15.
Duck with potato pancake and sour cherry glaze is another miss. Both duck and pancake are tepid and when asked about the temperature, the waiter informs us that it must ‘rest’ before serving. Not that long, please. The cherry glaze is scant and much needed as this bird is lacking in the usually gaminess we have come to expect. $22.
The prices may seem gentle and they aren’t bad but one must keep in mind that vegetables are a la carte. The steamed vegetable today is bok choy and is topped by a red pepper puree. Once again, a more generous hand with the puree, which provides the main flavour, is needed. $6.
Desserts are hearty and super sweet. Chocolate bread pudding is warm and terrific. Gingerbread cake is also good and comes with a big dollop of crème chantilly (whipped cream) which I pilfer to offset the sugar quotient of the pudding. $8 for each.
Nice meal? Sure. Worthy of the banner carrier of the 100 mile food movement? Not.
4 Gilead Place, Toronto, ON. (647) 288-0680