A report of any seafood restaurant in Toronto is always noteworthy as we are not exactly near the sea. Those of us who crave the offerings of the deep blue have been long grateful to Rodney — the man who trained us to love oysters. He began in a large space below ground on Adelaide Street roughly 30 years ago and then, early in the new millennium, moved across town into hipper digs on King West — all the while being a favourite at high-end catered events.
Rodney’s has now added another address to his empire, sort of. Under Rodney’s watchful eye, his protege of five years, John Belknap, using the same logo, has opened a creative new location on Temperance Street. It is open only Monday through Friday during business hours.
On the evening we are there, we are overwhelmed by the waves of sound as we enter. It is small, there is a party, and (as I am later informed) it is the hottest night – Thursday. We deal with the noise by sitting side-by-side at the bar and shouting into each others’ ears.
Of course, we cannot ignore the eponymous oysters but the prices are predictably high so we indulge in three: one each from PEI (Raspberry Point); British Columbia (Kusshi); and Nova Scotia (Village Bay). Nova Scotia is the unanimous big winner, although I do wish they offered pedestrian, big, beefy Malpeques. They run between $2.75 and $3.50 each, but I must factor in the entertainment value of sitting ring side and watching the deft shucking of these bivalves.
Crab cakes are rather disappointing. Of course, every bar in town offers this dish but we reasonably expect these to be a cut above and they are not. At $14 for three small patties, I want to see less filler and more crab. The lemon aioli does not sufficiently elevate this offering.
It is a tough choice for the entrees. We see a lot of diners enjoying cones of fish and chips but we move on. ($17). There is one meat offering of short ribs and the mandatory $17 hamburger (I am bored of this trend already and new burger joints are still popping up!).
Lobster Roll. Now that is something we don’t see much of in these parts. Described as “hand pulled warm lobster, lobster bisque and tatsoi greens” (a member of the cabbage/bok choy family). My eye tells me that there is meat from a whole lobster in a Parker House roll, and it has not been overwhelmed by mayonnaise. It is an odd presentation but it works. Sandwich on one side of the plate, cup of bisque beside it and colour contrast from the mound of greens. We pause over the bisque as it is not what we are expecting. No red of tomato and an absence of flour or potato thickening result in a light, thin, near-broth that is highly seductive. A great meal for $21.
Black cod has become a popular dish in Our Town but I am in the mood. It is pan roasted and sits, alongside baby bok choy, in an aromatic broth heightened by edamame, shimeji mushrooms and ginger. Delicious and healthy at $24.
Only three desserts are listed and we try two of them; crème brulee and Callebaut chocolate brown with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Both are fine but over priced at $9 a piece. Neither is memorable.
You might think that the blaring noise would get in the way of a good time but the food is so good, the bartender is so helpful, and the space is so intimate, that I look forward to a return visit. Just not on Thursday.
Do you think if we signed a petition Rodney’s By Bay would open on Saturday?
3 stars
Rodney’s By Bay 6 Temperance Street Toronto, ON M5H 3V5 (416) 703-5111
