We are so into the new that sometimes we forget the old restaurants that have been slinging the perfect pizza, pasta and seafood for decades. That’s where our trusted chefs come in to set us straight that newer doesn’t always mean better. Here are 10 OG restaurants that Toronto chefs still swear by.
Barberian’s Steak House. 1959
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Casa Paco’s Rob Bragagnolo is impressed by the veteran steak house, known for its Canadian art collection and a wine cellar boasting 30,000 bottles. “When the world seems a little crazy and you want to celebrate with the best steak in the city, cooked over wood fire, this is the place,” Bragagnolo recently told us.
Joso’s. 1967
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Chef Sash Simpson doesn’t hesitate when asked where to find the city’s best seafood. “There is nowhere in the city that does it better than Joso’s. I’ve been going there for over 30 years and it is always consistently great.” Opened by Croatian artist and musician Joso Spralja in 1967, the Yorkville institution has stayed firmly in family hands, with son Leo and grandson Marko now at the helm. Known for whole grilled fish, octopus risotto, and walls covered in busty sculptures and hand-blown glass, Joso’s is part restaurant, part art gallery, part time capsule.
Taste of China. 1987
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“I love dining here—it’s in the heart of Chinatown and reminds me of my hometown, Hong Kong,” says chef Susur Lee about Taste of China, a Toronto staple since 1997. Familiar Cantonese dishes, sizzling plates, hot pots and congee are served late into the night in a compact, no-frills room that’s become a second home for those with a penchant for late night bites.
Rodney’s Oyster House. 1987
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Rodney’s Oyster House is a Toronto institution built on saltwater and stubborn passion. Since opening in 1987, it’s been the city’s go-to for East Coast oysters, chowder, conch, clams and the kind of maritime hospitality that makes diners feel like they’’re eating somewhere special. “It’s always a fun night at Rodney’s—fish, oysters, and my love for smoked fish, especially the Smoker’s Platter,” says chef Alida Solomon.
Gio Rana’s Really Really Nice Restaurant (The Nose). 1998
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Before Leslieville was cool, there was Gio Rana’s Really Really Nice Restaurant. Opened in 1989 by Gio and Marilena Rana, the cozy Italian spot — nicknamed The Nose — has been serving up hearty pastas, giant meatballs and housemade focaccia ever since. “Light years ahead of its game when picking Leslieville as a location, and even more ahead of the game when it came to presenting Italian food in a chill, downplayed setting,” says chef Matt Basile.
Saigon Star. 1989
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A Richmond Hill institution since 1987, Saigon Star has long been a go-to for delicious Vietnamese flavours, French-inspired technique and legendary seafood. Famed for dishes like charbroiled oysters, pho and the iconic curry crab, it’s where chef Nick Liu of DaiLo brings visiting chefs from around the world. “The curry crab is my favourite dish in all of Toronto!” he says.
Churrasqueira Martins. 1994
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Tucked into a strip mall at Rogers and Weston, Churrasqueira Martins has been serving up classic Portuguese fare with heart for decades. From fresh seafood to charcoal-barbecued chicken doused in their signature sauce, it’s a family-run spot with serious flavour cred. “This is such an under-the-radar spot for most people in the city,” says Michelin-starred chef Rob Rossi. “The owner is incredible, and the food is spectacular.”
Tutti Matti. 2002
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For more than two decades, Tutti Matti has stayed true to rustic Tuscan cooking — no shortcuts, no crowd-pleasers, just bold, soulful food. Chef Alida Solomon trained in Siena and brought her passion back to Toronto with dishes like wild boar pici and mortadella pizzette. “You can’t go wrong with Italian, and Tutti Matti has been a staple for over 20 years,” says Mildred’s chef Donna Dooher. “I always go back for a comforting bowl of Alida’s pasta.”
Queen and Beaver Public House. 2009
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The Queen and Beaver is what happens when a proper British pub gets the royal treatment. Restaurateur Jamieson Kerr and chef Duncan Smith offer made-from-scratch classics like dripping-rich beef and onion pie, Cumberland bangers and ale-battered haddock. “The pub is cozy and authentic, offering traditional fare; their ale battered haddock and chips are the best,” says chef Dinesh Butola of Pukka.
Enoteca Sociale. 2010
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For 15 years, Enoteca Sociale has quietly served some of the city’s best Roman-inspired food from its cosy Little Portugal dining room. Chef Kyle Rindinella keeps it simple and seasonal with cacio e pepe, house-cured meats and arancini stuffed with ’nduja. The wine list is a love letter to Italy, and the vibe is all walnut, brick and warm light. “A neighbourhood gem, perfect for any night of the week. Love the ambience of the room and the warm staff,” says chef Adam Ryan of Azura.