What’s the secret to a bestselling cookbook? It helps when you’ve spent more than three decades building an empire around the authentic dishes that made you famous. That might sound like a tall order, but Cosimo Mammoliti, the visionary behind Terroni, has made it look effortless.
Published in September, La Cucina di Terroni: The Cookbook by Mammoliti and Meredith Erickson has quickly become a hit, inviting fans into the kitchen to recreate the recipes that made Terroni a Toronto institution.
“I didn’t want it to be just a cookbook,” says Mammoliti. “I wanted it to be part of the story — about who I am, and about Terroni. From what I’m hearing from people who’ve read it, they’re really connecting with that story.”
It’s hard to believe that before growing into ten beloved restaurants in Toronto and another three in Los Angeles, Terroni — a reclaimed slur once used to describe southern Italians — began as a humble Queen Street storefront selling Italian pantry staples. With just a few seats, coffee and $4 paninis on the menu, founders Mammoliti and his good friend Paolo Scoppio set out to bring authenticity and tradition to the neighbourhood — back when rent was only $800 a month.
“I grew up with the traditions of Italy through my family — the immigrant side of it,” Mammoliti says, reflecting on his early visits to Italy. “But when I finally went there and saw the food, the history, the culture — it blew me away. As a kid, it was everything. From that moment on, it was all I could think about.”
After just a year and a half, the duo was earning enough to invest in a pizza oven and secure a liquor license — two key steps that helped cement Terroni in the hearts of Toronto diners.
“When you’re young, back in those days, you could wing it a lot more,” Mammoliti says with a laugh. “I think nowadays, it might be a bit harder for young people to do that.”
Looking back, Mammoliti says he never could have predicted that his little restaurant would grow into the legacy it now holds — with four Toronto locations, three in Los Angeles and a variety of concepts including La Bettola, Bar Centrale, Sud Forno bakeries and Spaccio commissary kitchens.
“I wake up every day and still can’t believe what’s happened,” Mammoliti says. “I love the whole process — finding the space, working with architects and graphic designers, and bringing it all to life.”
How has Terroni not only stood the test of time but continued to thrive and expand? According to Mammoliti, the secret lies in consistently offering uncompromisingly authentic Italian cuisine, with ingredients sourced directly from Italy — from flour from the Marche region to tomatoes from the southern Mediterranean.
But that commitment to consistency extends beyond the menu to the spaces Terroni carefully creates.
“What sets us apart is that I’ve always stuck to what I believe in — quality, creating a friendly, approachable place for people,” he says. “You work hard, and you want to spend your money on something that feels good. We try to be open and welcoming to everyone — bring your kids, bring your family. Come to hang out, celebrate a birthday or special occasion. Dress up, dress down — it’s all okay here.”
Now, with decades of experience and plenty of time to reflect, Mammoliti has finally given diners what they’ve been craving: the stories behind Terroni. Over the course of three years, he sat down with executive chef Giovanna Alonzi — who herself has been with the group for 25 years — to share anecdotes for each of the more than 100 recipes featured in the book. Loosely organized around “a day in the life,” the chapters guide readers from morning calzone to lunchtime dishes, classic cocktails, snacks, antipasti, dolci and so much more.
Each dish was photographed at different Terroni locations, with the restaurant’s photographer, graphic designer and other team members collaborating to bring every recipe to life.
“It was a three-year process, but it was such a pleasure because everyone had Terroni DNA,” says Mammoliti.
The book features both well-known recipes and some Mammoliti has never shared before — including his personal favourite: sugo della Domenica (Sunday sauce).
“It’s something I grew up with as a little kid — my mom would make it every Sunday,” he says, noting that he now cooks it for his own kids. “The smell filling the house is beautiful. Then you sit down, make a pasta dish with the sauce, and add the meat as a second part. It becomes a full meal of one thing and turns into a really beautiful meal to share.”
