Encouraging readers to try new and interesting styles of beer is something I consciously try do with this column. This week, though, I have something more familiar (everyone’s heard of IPAs, right?), but I think this one is particularly well-made.
Held to the light, Bellwoods’ Roman Candle IPA shows a clear, brassy-gold colour topped with a rocky white head.
The aroma — predominantly grapefruit, citrus zest and that pine-cedar woodsy smell, with a touch of more exotic tropical fruit — is its strongest suit. Keep coming back to it as your glass (hopefully a beer tulip or other vessel with inward-curving sides) empties, and you’ll get an undiluted sense of what North American hops smell like.
On the palate, the flavour is of white grapefruit, resin and bitterness, but it has less caramel and malty sweetness than other IPAs. That means that Roman Candle is crisp and refreshing, but in my opinion, it won’t hold up as well when the weather cools and beckons slow-sipping IPAs.
Despite the muddled mythology that this style travels well — yes, there were British soldiers in India, and many of them drank beer, but it’s not accurate to think that India pale ales were purpose-built just for that market — this is a beer that should be consumed as soon after it’s bottled as possible.
That’s added incentive to head down to the brewery to get a few bottles directly from the source.
Bellwoods Brewery’s Roman Candle, $5.50 for a 500 ml bottle. Available at the brewery at 124 Ossington Ave.
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is also the author of the upcoming Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.