When the partners behind Double Trouble Brewing Co. — Claude Lefebvre and Nathan Dunsmoor — released their Hops & Robbers IPA, it was like an introductory course on IPAs. Now, with the upcoming release of their Prison Break Breakout Pilsner, beer drinkers will get an easy-drinking take on Czech-style lager.
Hops lend a variety of characteristics to beer: on one end of the spectrum, the newer American types add bitterness and flavors of grapefruit, zest and pine; on the other end, the more subtle and austere central European varieties show up as herbal, spicy or minty.
For both of their beers, Double Trouble has picked hops that usually sit near opposite edges of the hops continuum, but each beer is accessible and balanced.
Poured from the can, a pillowy, white cap sits resiliently on top of the straw-gold, clear lager. The subtle aroma is of toasted cereal and spices that associate with rye bread.
The first sip starts as a slightly off-dry maltiness (the sweetness may change a bit as the recipe is perfected), which gives way to a lingering finish of floral, mouth-drying Saaz hops. That slightly bitter, snappy finish comes from hop additions made throughout the process, including dry-hopping after the boil.
When pairing a pilsner with food, there are two things that need to be taken into account. Pilsners have plenty of carbonation, so they will work well to lift fat. They also have fairly subtle flavours that partner well with the European meat-first, spices-second flavour palate. In this case, I’d look to grilled wursts, roast potatoes or a plate of charcuterie.
Prison Break has been spotted at some of Toronto’s finer beer bars, including Bar Hop, Tall Boys and 3030. Given that Hops & Robbers is usually in about half of the LCBO’s locations (that’s two to three times what most craft beers manage) I expect this one will be easy to find once it hits stores.
Double Trouble Prison Break Breakout Pilsner, LCBO #337006
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including Spotlight Toronto and his own site, Food With Legs. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter.