If nothing else, the LCBO’s autumn seasonal release is consistent: all 11 beers are either stouts or porters. My favourite of the bunch is the Rye Porter from Amager Bryghus.
The Rye Porter pours a very dark brown with a coffee-and-cream brown head. Take a small sip of the resilient, foamy cap to see how much lighter the dense espresso and chocolate flavours are when diluted by all those tiny bubbles.
The aroma — dark-roasted grains, coffee and a bit of sweetness — loudly announces that this is a strong porter. We’re taken on a tour that starts with grain sweetness, continues on to the subtle spice flavours of rye and finishes with a double shot of bitterness from both American hops and nearly-burnt malt.
The creamy mouthfeel and the lack of heat (despite the 8.5 per cent alcohol content) complete the enjoyable experience.
Amager Bryghus is one of the better known craft breweries in Denmark. It has clearly designed the Rye Porter to fit into an ongoing trend: that of adding American-style hops to beer recipes that have traditionally been driven more by malt flavours.
With its slight kick of acidity, the Rye Porter will match well with rich and hearty meat stews, and it will also hold up to chocolate desserts that aren’t particularly sweet.
It’s very difficult to get a beer writer to admit that he just doesn’t like a particular style. So I’ll qualify myself here when I say that until the weather gets truly cold and gloomy, I find it difficult to get excited about thick, dark beers that are packed with dark-roasted flavours. But this is a beer I could enjoy at least eight months of the year, probably because it’s so well-made and so balanced from the rye-spice notes.
Amager Bryghus's Rye Porter, $6.25 for a 500 ml bottle, LCBO #330381
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is also the author of the upcoming Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
