The first notable show of Fashion Week day three was Vawk, designed by Sunny Fong, winner of Project Runway Canada’s second season. In the audience, Bernadette Morra was vibrant in a bright orange Joe Fresh coat; Kreesha Turner donned what appeared to be an Hervé Léger bandeau dress; Stacey McKenzie looked sophisticated in a pinned back ’do and red lips.
The show was titled “Sci-Fi Samurai,” and models wearing head harnesses of sorts stormed out in a range of luxurious looks. Using materials including silk, leather and cashmere, the collection featured a palette of plum, copper and black. A striking cashmere and leather coat with a fox fur trim played up a woman’s natural curves; a long black dress featured mesh inserts at the waist, which wrapped around to reveal leather koi fish detailing on the back. A brief video interlude saw Fong introducing his sister line, Vawkkin, before part two of the show began. Using everyday women as models — which really resonated with the female attendees — the newer line was supposedly aimed at the professional woman. Unfortunately, neither the fabrics nor the cuts were in any way invigorating. We’ll leave it at that.
Line
Following a brief preview at Monday’s Holt Renfrew showcase, Line drew Susie Sheffman, Ainsley Kerr and Nathalie Atkinson to its full runway presentation. After we perused a handout that could have used a spellcheck, designers John Muscat and Jennifer Wells sent out a body of work referencing rustic terrains, most of which was highly desirable. Our favourite look from the collection was a washed lambskin and wool knit coatdress, which zipped up at the front and apposed both patterns and textures; pieces that straddled the line between cardigan and coat had us (almost) wishing it would snow.
Bustle
We knew it was time for Bustle when the male-female ratio evened out somewhat. Known for their extravagant sets and high-energy shows, designers Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow festooned the head of the runway with a rustic wooden fence and a covered wagon. After a video celebrating the Calgary Stampede was screened, a model wearing a shirt emblazoned with “This ain’t my first rodeo” stepped out, covering her face with a cowboy hat. No one was particularly surprised when the hat was lowered and a very made up Stacey McKenzie — who clearly lives for Fashion Week — was revealed.
What with all the hoopla and a parade of smoldering male models to boot, we could barely focus on the clothes. A denim sports jacket featured leather detailing, while a shirt with a pair of trompe l’oeil suspenders was a cheeky touch. Overall, however, the clothes themselves reminded us of last season’s, only seen through a different lens and accessorized with cowboy hats and bolo ties. The show came to an end with McKenzie plunking hats on two front-rowers (Arlene Dickinson being one of them) before the designers — Promislow with a bun in the oven — took their bow.
Mélissa Nepton
Up next was Montreal-based designer Mélissa Nepton. A versatile series of looks in mostly grey, beige and burned-brown hues was presented in materials like jersey and wool. Nepton’s use of flowing lines and drapery made the garments seem well suited to a variety of body types. Our favourite looks were a duo done in cream and a robin’s egg blue; the first broke a collared, button-down shirt into a draped blouse, while the second — composed of a silk top and pants — featured a blue vertical stripe balanced by cream on either side.
Joe Fresh
The major event of the day was Joe Fresh. Once again drawing a full house, guests included Anne Mroczkowski, E-talk’s Traci Melchor, a bearded and barely-recognizable Evan Biddell, Galen Weston and, of course, Kim Newport-Mimran, who was dressed smartly in floral pants, the trend du jour. Featuring internationally renowned models Heather Marks, Kate King, Alana Zimmer and Anais Pouliot, the show opened (yet again) with a video clip, this time from ’60s film Blowup.
Exhibiting an array of colour before progressing into black and white looks, the retro collection featured wardrobe staples alongside more playful pieces. We liked the coats with faux-fur accents — a kelly green one in particular — but wonder how the inexpensive material will wear. A turquoise sweater paired with a blue skirt was a great look, though neoprene jackets for men worked less well. Houndstooth cigarette pants showed off some pointed shoes with an elongated lip, while a boxy sand-coloured tee paired with a mustard skirt was very Jil Sander. Despite a bit of an awkward end (Bruce C. Bailey handed Mimran a rose before presenting a huge bundle of them to the missus), it was another home run for Mr. Joe Fresh.
Also in Fashion Week Diaries
Day One: Lucian Matis’ darkly romantic vision, Holt Renfrew lacks panache
Day Two: impressive looks from Adrian Wu, Laura Siegel and Sid Neigum and Chloé Comme Parris, Martin Lim, Lundström Collection
Tomorrow: Caitlin Power and Pink Tartan
