WE ARRIVE AT Rosedale’s latest restaurant, Quanto Basta, with high expectations.
An offshoot of the popular Capocaccia on Yonge south of St. Clair, Quanto blazes a similar trail but with a greater emphasis placed on wine, thanks to the installation of the Enomatic Wine Serving System.
We are greeted by the familiar, and oh-so-charming Sal, a signal that we will be well tended.
The menu does not overreach but is supplemented by several specials.
Bruschetta bis del giorno is reinvented daily. Tonight is a good one — two large pieces of mushroom and two of classic tomato.
We assume that Caprese salad will offer no surprises: cherry tomatoes, arugula, basil and fresh burrata cheese finished with a balsamic reduction.
Since it is not what we are expecting, the price of $18 seems disproportionate.
True, it does arrive as a huge loaf, but the bed of greens is dry, the reduction is barely there, and we count six cherry tomato halves. After a few minutes, the cheese starts to weep, and we manage to eat only half. No one inquires.
Mains are a measurable improvement. I have relied on the server for a wine recommendation, and this gives me the confidence to trust her food choices.That is how I end up with ravioli zita e basta.
The collection of wild mushrooms is combined with an aggressive cream and truffle sauce that makes for a decadence that defies description.
The portion is huge.
So often stuffed pasta carries little echo from the promised filling, but this is an exquisite exception ($18).
Sometimes the mundane, in the right hands, can be elevated to star status, and so it is with the Cornish hen alla mattone.
This translates as Cornish hen under the brick. I have seen this demonstrated but never had the chance to try it.The pressing of the brick creates maximum contact with the grill and, therefore, maximum crispiness without loss of moisture.
Desserts ($8) are made in house, and we choose two of the three or four that are offered.
One flourless chocolate cake presents as flatter than we have come to expect and not very moist in the centre but with a nice bitter edge that pleases the tongue.
Profiterole are described as being coated in chocolate (notice a theme here?), and I, foolishly, expect something akin to the classic French rendition where the crispy shell is graced by hard, dark chocolate.
This version is different but no less valid. The doughy balls have been encased in a milk chocolate mousse that renders the pastry soft and moist.
As the new kid on the block, Quanto Basta is packed, and they don’t take reservations, so timing is critical.
But, can they keep this up or will they turn out to be the flavour of the month? A little polishing must take place before that question can be answered.
QUANTO BASTA
1112 Yonge St., 416-962-3141
Dinner for two, excluding tax, tip and alcohol
$75
