During a recent visit to Table 17, we began with appetizer crostini: savoury Tamworth pig lardo and rosemary. The earthy taste combined with the silken texture of the lardo on the crunchy crostini was an addictive experience. This was a hit!
The second crostini, white bean puree was topped with crispy pancetta and braised escarole, another hit. A third crostini of creamed cauliflower with brown butter and hazelnuts was very good but not as tasty as the others.
Our first course was a rich and savoury, mildly salty culatello, from the top sirloin of Tamworth ham. It was plated with a very crispy "torta frita" and a nippy pear mostarda. A terrific range of very complementary flavours, served with the mild bite of radish greens.
"Dolce forte" wild boar croquette followed. What a delightful dish because of the range of flavours and textures. The wild boar was coarsely chopped, seared and combined with chili, cloves and currents producing a mildly sweet spiciness. The meat was surrounded by mashed potatoes and an outer crispy breadcrumb coating. The plating again was thoughtful with cubes of sweet potato, all topped with mixed greens.
Perfectly braised, very tender, slow-roasted venison osso bucco was our next course. The sauce included an interesting touch of cinnamon, lemon zest and a bit of cloves. The meat was plated on a complementary tasting celery root puree. A small spoon was served to access the delicious bone marrow. A sprig of sage on the plate was more than decor. Cutting little pieces to eat with the venison perked up the taste even more.
The wonderful meal was complete with a serving of a "duo" of pecorino cheese.
John Sinopoli is the executive chef and partner at Table 17. Before coming to Toronto he spent over a year in Japan studying local cooking styles, then attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. After graduating, he worked at several very well known New York establishments, including La Caravelle, Craft and Gramercy Tavern. When he returned to Toronto, he worked with Chef David Lee at Splendido. Quite the culinary background.
Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.