The latest in a long line of restaurants from Toronto restauranteur Hemant Bhagwani, Bar Goa is offering Torontonians a wallet-friendly ten-course Indian omakase menu, and things are getting “bougie.”
Continuing the trend set by Goa Indian Farm Kitchen in North York and and Goa New York, the St. Lawrence restaurant marks the third installment in a series inspired by Hemant Bhagwani’s travels in the Indian coastal state. Focused on new age Indian, the restaurant —the first in the country to serve Indian omakase — provides a more intimate dining experience compared to its predecessors.
“After the New York Goa, which is 7,000 square feet, I just wanted to do a very small, higher-end boutique style where I can be involved hands-on and make sure I meet people myself and talk to them,” says Bhagwani. “In a bar setting, I wanted to pair deliciously beautiful cocktails with the cuisine and offer more of a tasting experience with smaller portions.”
With golden accents, grand arches, and sleek black-and-white tiles, the space draws inspiration from the churches of Goa, complemented by modern touches like LED lighting and luxurious cushioned seating.
The new menu emphasizes presentation and offers two options: a six-course standard omakase priced at $60 for vegetarian and $70 for non-vegetarian (with an additional $40 for beverage pairing), and a ‘bougie’ 10-course omakase at $90 for vegetarian and $110 for non-vegetarian (with an extra $60 for beverage pairing).
One of the standout items across all menu variations is the chaat, a popular Indian street food. It boasts a unique twist, aiming for a more ‘theatrical’ experience with a crunchy tart base topped with blackberries and pomegranate, all presented over a bed of dry ice.
Highlights on the ‘bougie’ non-vegetarian menu include the keema made with bison and paired with house-made pau (pav) bread, a twist on the traditional vindaloo featuring 24-hour cooked short ribs in lieu of pork, and, undoubtedly, Bhagwani’s legendary lamb chops, a signature dish perfected over two decades.
To enhance the regional experience, the Prawn Balchao, a popular Goan pickle found in every household according to Bhagwani, takes centre stage. Instead of pairing it with ordinary bread or roti, Bhagwani elevates the dish by serving it on Japanese milk bread, a delicacy gaining popularity in Toronto.
As for the vegetarian ‘bougie’ omakase, the elevated Indian cuisine comes alive through dishes like the homemade paneer, a jackroot xaccuti with roti and the chai & cutlet — chanterelle, porcini, shiitake mushroom galouti kebab with a wild mushroom broth.
To transport diners to Goa through cocktails, specialty drinks complement the Indian flavours of the menu. Standouts include the paan whiskey old fashioned, the Kashmiri chili-infused gin in the Mirchi Negroni and a unique twist on the espresso martini using Indian coffee. Additionally, as a sommelier, Bhagwani curates an extensive wine list that expertly complements the menu offerings.
After a stint in New York setting up GOA New York, the restaurateur has returned to Toronto. Bhagwani is hopeful that his latest venture, featuring the first-of-its-kind omakase menus, in Canada, will pave the way for him to secure a coveted spot in the Michelin Guide
“That’s my dream,” he says. “I’m hoping I can get there, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed.”
Bar Goa is open at 36 Toronto Street.