Much has been written of Claudio Aprile’s somewhat confrontational comments on his website. I will not repeat them here, save to say that as a marketing strategy it seems unwise to make a preemptive strike against those whose words will reach the audience he is courting.

I will say that Origin is not for everyone; it is not for a romantic evening; it is not for treating your visiting aunt from Shawinigan; and, it is not the place for an intimate sharing of confidences. It is for seekers of the newest and chicest in the Toronto food scene and those whose budget has some elasticity.

The place is gorgeous from the fabulous chandeliers to the whimsical cutlery to the idyllic vodka-based Mojito with fresh ginger, all of which awaken the palette to the treats that will arrive. The menu is strictly tapas and some of these dishes are, indeed, wee. We start cold and work our way up. Deviled eggs (2) are rather ordinary despite the dusting of gremolata (garlic, parsley and lemon zest) but are elevated by perfect flags of greaseless, crispy smoked bacon. $3.

Smoked cod croquettes arrive as five impossibly light miniatures and are graced by a saffron aioli. Again, there is no trace of the frying oil. $5

We skip the Raw Bar where the prices begin to climb: 3 oysters for $12 seem steep. The next category – Mozzarella Bar, strikes us as precious, particularly when each plate comes in at $15. However, as we are sitting bar-side of the open kitchen and can view the preparation, those gorgeous platings of Burrata, Bufala, Fior di latte begin to tempt. Moving on.

As we note that calabrese bread is offered with the cheese course, we request some. After being informed by our waiter that they ‘discourage bread’ he relents and brings a basket of five thin slices with dipping oil for $3. C’mon guys.

From the ‘Chilled’ category we try the Bangkok Beef Salad with peanut, mint and remarkably ripe mango. True, ‘tis tasty, but at $15 we can get this on any block in town.

Things really pick up in the ‘Hot’ category. Corn soup with crème fraiche and cheddar croutons is good but not remarkable. Half bowl – $6. Then comes the duck, and I quote: “Chinois duck wrap + pickled cucumber + hoisin + sriracha “(hot sauce made from chili paste). All the parts come arrayed on a pancake which we wrap and share. Absolutely delicious but one is just not enough. $12.

Best for last – Chorizo with manchego rice topped with a poached egg, salsa verde and dried ground black olives. This is heaven and I would return just to make a dinner of this dish. The brittle exterior of the grilled sausage is softened by the succulence of the cheese-laden risotto and further enriched by the egg yolk. It leaves us to guess that Origin’s cuisine could be further elevated with a focus redirected to the Iberian peninsula.

Desserts are predictably complex and the winner is, exquisitely, Caramelized Brioche with walnut praline and honey yogurt sorbet. The French bread stands in successfully for sponge cake and the layering of sweet/crunchy nuts and cool ice is a marvel. $8.

Back where I began – this is a destination for those to whom culinary experimentation is enticing, and for those who crave to be at the ‘latest and hottest’. Govern yourselves accordingly.

3 STARS

Origin, 107-109 King St. East, 416-603-8009