On a weekend that most are talking turkey we’ll turn our attention to truffles. Yes, it’s that time of year when these tiny, top-priced tubers turn otherwise frugal-minded chefs, like my husband, into literal truffle hogs (more on that in a minute).
On Tuesday, Wanda, the truffle lady as she is known in kitchens across Toronto, paid us a visit bringing with her a fresh import. Legendary in their own right, truffles are renowned as one of the world’s most expensive foods. "White diamonds," as they are sometimes called, carry a distinct musky flavour that can be used to enhance dishes ranging from omelettes, fresh pasta, risotto and beyond.
Its shavings can also be used to grace a salad such as the wild Labrador green tea gelée that my husband recently prepared to lead an eight-course tasting menu at a client’s home in Rosedale last weekend. Using 150 grams of the ‘fancy-pants fungus,’ (at a cost of $6 a gram — which is a reasonable rate this season compared to years past when prices peaked at more than $12 for a taste) the dish was a huge hit.
Over the course of our many years in the business, we’ve developed some amazing relationships with farmers of all sorts. While most reside close to home, a select few are from far away. One such relationship is with the Zigante family from Istria in Croatia.
For generations, this family has been hunting and selling white truffles. The deep forests of this region house the perfect conditions for nurturing young white truffles to peak size, flavour and aroma during late fall and early winter. The legendary truffle hogs have now given way to specially trained dogs as the preferred hunters (it seems the dogs are less likely to eat their findings and can be trained to better sniff out the source). But it’s a skill so refined, that only few have this remarkable talent.
For decades, the Zigante family has successfully distributed white truffles across Europe and North America. In fact, 85 per cent of Zigante truffles are sold to the Alba region of Italy. Ironically, these truffles are then sold to America as Alba truffles (long-regarded as the Rolls Royce of truffles).
“It’s an honour to cook with such delicate produce,” I overheard Marc tell a customer earlier this week. “I spoke to the Zigante family and they told me that the little dog who found these truffles is named Clinton — he did a great job. They are just so ripe and beautifully aromatic… the whole restaurant envelops the fragrance when I cook with them.”
Taking advantage of the short season, Marc has decided to feature a white truffle tasting menu through November upon request. Given their rarity, reservations must be made at least three days in advance and you must specify your wish for the “white truffle menu.” Always based on what’s fresh that day, here’s a look at a special menu we served earlier this week. CLICK HERE.
World-renowned executive chef, Marc Thuet, and his wife and business partner, Biana Zorich, will be blogging weekly for PostCity.com about their new show and restaurants.