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Four foods to up the fear factor

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Halloween season is supposed to be scary, and few thrills are more rewarding than venturing outside of one’s culinary comfort zone. Luckily, Toronto is a great place to experiment with strange and exotic food. Herewith, four extreme dishes that also happen to be delicious.

Ahead of the pack
Fish heads may not be pretty, but they contain some of the best flavours that seafood can offer. At Catch, chef Charlotte Langley makes a great fish head soup. She takes heads, usually from pink fish, and sears them. Then she adds garlic, onions and other spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, star anise and wine-soaked saffron. Tomatoes and water are thrown in, and it’s all simmered for a few hours, then puréed and strained. Normally it’s not served with whole fish heads, as pictured here, but for anyone who wants them, Langley is happy to oblige (just call ahead).
Fear factor: 4/5
Catch, 744 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-658-0568

An egg-ceptional snack
In the Philippines, balut is a common street food. Here, it’s more of a novelty item, recommended only for those who are particularly unflappable. Balut is a boiled, partially developed duck egg, complete with veins and feathers. First-timers will likely find it offensive, but the taste is not so bad — it’s mostly like a regular hard-boiled egg, with some offal undertones. For an adrenaline rush, check it out at Kanto, one of the many street food vendors at Market 707 at Bathurst and Dundas.
Fear factor: 5/5
Kanto by Tita Flips, 707 Dundas St. W., 1-888-393-9990

Eye of the beholder
Takht-e Tavoos, a newish brunch spot on College Street, serves traditional Persian food, including a delicacy known as kaleh pacheh. This dish can easily freak out squeamish eaters. The broth is made from sheep head and other sheep parts, and it is served with two whole tongues and a hoof. If you’re lucky, it may also come with an eyeball. And although it may sound a little over the top, it is actually fantastic, full of pleasant textures and warming spices, such as garlic, turmeric and cinnamon.
Fear factor: 3.5/5
Takht-e Tavoos, 1120 College St., 647-352-7322

Bug out
Nathan Isberg, chef and owner of the Atlantic, is a proponent of bug eating. Not many North Americans feel the same way, even though insects are considered delicious in many parts of the world (and they are a very sustainable source of protein, too). Isberg commonly serves hay-smoked crickets — which taste like almonds — as well as other insects. When we went, we were offered a breaded and deep-fried grasshopper, which was nutty and crunchy. Those who are feeling adventurous should give Isberg advance notice.
Fear factor: 4.5/5
The Atlantic, 1597 Dundas St. W., 416-219-3819

Concert Review: Kid Cudi at the Air Canada Centre

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About halfway through Kid Cudi’s 90-minute set at the Air Canada Centre on Thursday night, he performed a track called “Erase Me.” The timing was interesting, given that it was right around that point that the Cleveland, Ohio hip-hop star was erasing much of the damage done earlier that evening.

Cudi’s silky smooth, energetic set helped wash away a spotty lead-in, which saw a half-hearted effort from Big Sean in front a sparse crowd. A momentum-killing 45-minute intermission and a randomly stern lecture about the show’s “rules” over the sound system didn’t help, either.

Somehow, by the time Cudi took to the stage, the crowd seemed fuller and more robust. They were more than game as the star emerged wearing a tight-fitting, futuristic space suit. He quickly launched (no pun intended) into the crowd pleaser, “Unfuckwittable.”

From there, Cudi delivered a seamless show that sustained and maximized the energy of those in attendance, even as the headlining performer got occasionally lost in the hazy sea of gratuitous dry ice. The only break from the flow came late in the evening, as Cudi took a moment of genuine reflection to offer his appreciation for the fans that had helped him grow as a performer. It was an unexpectedly raw, poignant moment from a guy who has meticulously crafted a fictitious stage persona.

As touchingly real as that moment felt, this night was about laying down energetic hip-hop beats. Therefore, it wasn’t long before Cudi shifted into a string of crowd favourites, getting standout responses for “Mr. Rager” and inspiring an audience reaction that felt 10,000-strong on “Pursuit of Happiness” and “Day ‘n’ Night.”

The night came to a bit of an anti-climactic end with Big Sean joining Cudi on stage. This garnered next to no reaction from the crowd (not surprising to those who had been around to see Big Sean’s flat opening set), but Cudi had long since squeezed plenty out of his stage time.

Fever pitch

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Half a world away 21-year-old Daniel Haber hits the lush green Cyprus fields for a game of soccer (or football, depending on one’s preference). The former Ivy Leaguer runs, gazes and plans the perfect moment to slalom through a slew of defenders, before lining up a shot on goal.

It’s a dream come true, one that nearly didn’t happen: At the age of 12, a young, nervous Haber went under the knife to remove a lump from his forehead.

He spent hours at SickKids Hospital on the operating table with his head sliced open, to remove the tumour, and subsequently reattached with titanium and dozens of staples. It was a rare case of Pott’s puffy tumour, a bacterial infection that doctors believed was caused by a sinus infection that nearly spread to his brain.

The tumour could’ve left him brain-damaged or killed him.

At age 11 Haber was a passionate soccer fan, and at 12 the brush with death nearly extinguished that flame, but when he was in Grade 11 at York Mills, it was time for the flame to be reignited.

He joined the Spartacus soccer team where he trained constantly and became a star player.

“When I was in high school, I played for a club team. We practised, like five six times a week,” Haber says. “It was a lot more intense than just like casual high school sports.”

The passion and drive payed off when he was accepted to the Ivy League’s Cornell University. He continued to play there until he took a leave of absence to play in Israel. He has since left, after the one year contact in Israel expired, to play in Cyprus.

Despite globe-trotting, Haber regularly stays in touch with his high school friends online and has fond memories of his time at York Mills. He particularly liked his Grade 12 teacher Peter Polley, a long-time mainstay at the school, who he recalls as brutally honest and willing to go the extra mile to help him succeed.

Polley passed away in 2011, shortly after Haber left to got to university. He was a teacher who Haber remembers as one who prepared him for his time at an Ivy League university.

But today, Haber’s focus is on soccer: “I hope to continue playing professional soccer as long as I still enjoy it, Haber says. “I just want to enjoy each and every moment.” 

A Grey Cup homecoming

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It’s been nearly 10 years since Matt Black walked the halls of Northern Secondary School as a student, but it wasn’t long ago when Matt returned to his old school as Grey Cup champ, big silver trophy in tow.

For Black, seeing the people who introduced him to the game and who followed his journey as an Argonaut is priceless.

“The best thing about winning the Grey Cup is seeing everyone who supported you through thick and thin when you doubted yourself, when you had ups and downs in your career,” Black says. “When you see them so happy and so overjoyed for you, that’s the best thing.”

If it wasn’t for his coaches at Northern, Black may not be where he is today. He never played football before attending the school, and when he brought home the permission form to join the team in Grade 9, it was a shock to his mother. She didn’t think he could play football and thought that he would be killed on the field.

His mother had good reason to worry. When Black tried out for the football team, he was one of the smallest players on the roster. His size didn’t matter on the field, however. His coach, Jim Hutton, said that if he made every practice, he would automatically make the team.

He made the team as promised, but his first year playing football at Northern was unspectacular. He only managed to make three plays. That didn’t deter him, however. He stuck with it through high school, and from there he wound up playing college football in the U.S. when he graduated.

Following that stint, he was drafted to the Argos. Life was a dream come true in more ways than one. At the start of the 2012–2013 season, his first daughter was born.

“While the team was flying out to Edmonton for the first game, I was in a labour and delivery room,” he says.

On New Year’s Eve of 2012, he married his girlfriend and became a family man.

He topped off that season with the Grey Cup win, but it’s bringing the cup home to Northern that he truly savours.

Black says, “It was just great to give them something back after all that they had given me.”

Tony Aspler’s Weekly Wine Pick: a spicy red from one of Greece’s indigenous grapes

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Greece’s indigenous grape variety Xinomavro translates literally as “sour black.” The wine is medium ruby with a tawny rim; the bouquet is spicy and strawberry. It has a flavour of dried berries and plums. Good value.

Food match: pork kebabs; moussaka

Boutari Naoussa, 2008, Greece, $12.95. Vintages #23218

 

Post City Magazines’ wine columnist, Tony Aspler, has written 14 books on wine and food. Tony also created the Ontario Wine Awards and has been inducted into the New York Media Wine Writers’ Hall of Fame. He can be heard on 680News.

Weekend Warrior: Nuit Blanche, Reel Talk, High Park Harvest Festival, Halloween Costume Swap

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It’s Thursday and the weekend is fast approaching. Need stuff to see or do? We’ve got you covered. In this edition: a haunted stroll through downtown Toronto, a new TIFF film series and the city’s annual nocturnal art festival.

The Haunted Streets of Downtown Toronto

When: Oct. 4-31
Where: Begins outside the ROM
Details: Explore Toronto in a way you never have before with a tour of the city’s haunted streets. The two-hour walking tour starts at the front steps of the Royal Ontario Museum and takes you on a journey through the paranormal legends behind some of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. The final stop on the tour is at one of "the most notorious of Toronto’s haunted buildings." You may never see the city the same way again.


Scotiabank Nuit Blanche 2013

When: Oct. 5
Where: Various locations
Details: Arguably the city’s most anticipated cultural event of the year goes down this weekend, starting at exactly 6:51 p.m. on Saturday evening and continuing until dawn on Sunday. Nuit Blanche’s exhibits and events are scattered across downtown, but are concentrated mostly along the University subway line, offering somewhat easier transportation to the all-night celebration. Featured this year is controversial Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei, who has created a new, 3,144-bike version of his Forever Bicycles sculpture, which will be displayed in Nathan Phillips Square.


Halloween Costume Swap

When: Oct. 5
Where: Kid Culture (3124 Dundas St. West)
Details: As Halloween approaches, busy parents can set aside stressful thoughts of makeshifting a last-minute costume. Instead, bring a clean, used children’s costume to Kid Culture on Dundas West for a Halloween costume swap. Parents that bring their used costumes in by Oct. 4 will receive a ticket that they may use on the day of the swap to pick up a different costume for their child in exchange for the one they donated. Those without a costume to donate can still pick one up for a $5 donation to The Redwood, a haven for women and children fleeing abuse.


Reel Talk

When: Oct. 6
Where: TIFF Bell Lightbox
Details: Experience the best films from around the world with a new edition of Reel Talk, a film series at TIFF Bell Lightbox. Reel Talk, which kicks off this Sunday, offers two films a month, many of which are previews that have not yet been released. TIFF offers a subscription for the entire Reel Talk season for $175, but tickets to individual films can be purchased separately. The only catch is that the title of the film you are attending is not released ahead of time, making every experience a surprise.


High Park Harvest Festival

When: Oct. 6
Where: High Park (south end, at Colborne Lodge and the Children’s Garden)
Details: Celebrate the best the harvest season has to offer this Sunday without ever leaving the city. Enjoy music, seasonal hot apple cider, horse-drawn wagon rides, crafts and tours. Access to the park grounds is, as always, free, while some activities cost a fee.

Bar Salumi has closed, but a new lunch spot is set to open in its place

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When Bar Salumi’s website and phone number went dead not too long ago, we decided to find out what was up. It seems that Parkdale’s Italian aperitivo hot spot was put up for sale last month, and then was quickly snatched up by one of Bar Salumi’s chefs, Haeyoen An, who plans to open a lunch spot in the former Italian cinq à sept venue.

Bar Salumi co-owner Michael Sangregorio told us that he and his partner, Fabio Bondi, are planning to focus on their neighbouring business, Local Kitchen and Wine Bar. The long-term plan is to eventually open another Local. Where? They’re not sure yet, or at least they’re not telling.

The Rock ‘n’ Roll Revival Hour: Moby, Hawksley Workman, Eamon McGrath, Sebastien Grainger, The Dust

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Cold Specks plus Moby… sort of

Techno guru Moby, of multimillion-selling album Play, just released his latest effort, Innocents, on the acclaimed Arts & Crafts record label. It’s a solid effort, but what I love is the inclusion of local phenom Al Spx, otherwise known as Cold Specks, on two of the album’s better tracks: “A Case For Shame” and “Tell Me.”

After her “doom soul” album, this style of music seems an obvious direction for Cold Specks, and I’m hoping this is a hint of things to come. Check out the official video for “A Case For Shame” below:

 

Hawkin’ a one-man show

Musical chameleon Hawksley Workman has created sweet music in more genres than Rob Ford has chins. Kidding! But perhaps not so surprisingly, he’s never done cabaret. But that all ended when his one-man show, The God That Comes, inspired by the 2,400-year-old drama The Bacchae, premiered to rave reviews at Alberta Theatre Works. Workman has released an album of the show and is embarking on a North American tour that includes a stop at Toronto’s Tarragon Theatre next June. Check out the teaser trailer for the show here:

THE GOD THAT COMES promo clip from 2b theatre company on Vimeo.

 

Digital punk

I love that Eamon McGrath sent his new album into the office with a note thanking me for supporting independent music. Really, when it comes to something this good, it’s my pleasure. Exile Part 1 is out in a digital-only format Oct. 15 and is the first part of a three album series that will eventually lead to a full-length vinyl release in 2014. Exile Part 1 contains three top-notch songs that are more indie rock than punk, punctuated by McGrath’s fine gravely growl of a voice. Check out the acoustic B-side for one of his new songs, “Exile.” Quite stunning.

 

Boom goes the Grain-a-mite?

Toronto’s Sebastien Grainger, of Death From Above 1979 acclaim, has announced a new album dubbed Yours To Discover, set for release on Nov. 12 via Last Gang Records. Judging by the first single, “Going With You,” the album is an upbeat, dare I say happy affair — the yin to Death From Above’s ferocious yang. Yeah, I just wrote that. Deal with it! Check out the first single below.

 

Sonic Youth alum

A founding member of iconic band Sonic Youth, Lee Ranaldo — along with his current band, The Dust — hits the Horseshoe Tavern on Oct. 11 in support of their new release, Last Night on Earth. It’s a phenomenal record, epic in scope, with off-the-charts musicianship. This will be a very good show from a very good band. Check out the full album stream here.

Theatre Review: The Best Brothers

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If you are looking for a piece of theatre that is fun and unpretentious, you can’t do better than The Best Brothers, Daniel MacIvor’s latest play, now in its second week at Tarragon Theatre. When a couple of very different brothers learn their mother has died, they have to find a way to deal with each other, and her dog.

You can tell it’s a comedy because the death comes at the beginning rather than at the end.

MacIvor wrote this play for Stratford, where it premiered last year to great acclaim. He wrote it to be performed by himself and fellow Nova Scotian actor John Beale. Largely unchanged from last year’s production, the Tarragon remount features the same cast and the same director, Stratford’s Dean Gabourie.

As Canadian playwrights go, Daniel MacIvor is a winner: Dora, Governor General, Siminovitch and other awards. He is currently a playwright-in-residence at Tarragon, which has produced five of his other works in previous years. Meanwhile, Beale, whose training and career have taken him far and wide, is making his Toronto debut at Tarragon. You’ll be seeing a lot more of him around Toronto in the near future.

The play starts off at a brisk pace and establishes stark contrasts immediately. Easygoing real-estate agent Kyle (Beale) and rigid, methodical architect Hamilton (MacIvor) are opposites in style, demeanour and attitude. The wide-open stage is blazing green and flat black (set and costume Julie Fox). The sound goes from cacophony to crisp chatter to awkward silence as the incompatible brothers convene at Kyle’s condo (sound design Jesse Ash).

From beginning to end there is clarity — in delivery of dialogue, delineation of characters, development of story and lighting (lighting design Itai Erdal). Transitions of scene and character are smooth and economical, sometimes with subtle music to colour the mood (composer Jonathan Monro).

The brothers are at odds from the outset. Their debates about how to word the obituary and who is delivering the eulogy are hilarious but believable. Director Gabourie choreographs the conflict between the brothers (and the affection, such as it is) in a way that never feels staged; whether verbal, emotional or physical, the interactions are natural and palpable.

What is best about The Best Brothers is that the seasoned actors have a rapport with each other, and with the audience, such that they just live the characters’ lives without ever seeming to work for a laugh or to set up an emotional response. Although MacIvor does have brothers, as he explains in the post-show talkback (taking place all this week), the most autobiographical parts of the script are the tales of the dog, which shed light on each of the characters.

You don’t have to have a brother or a dog to understand that people have strong and sometimes mixed feelings about their siblings and pets. More than that, this play is about the individuality of each child-parent relationship and about the different ways in which one can respond to death. MacIvor approaches the subject humorously and thoughtfully, without resorting to contrived wordplay or convoluted philosophizing.

This is not a play of extremes — perhaps because MacIvor wrote it with a Stratford audience in mind. Although The Best Brothers may not give you that big cathartic sob or gasp-inducing plot twist, it is funny and reflective, with poignant moments of self-awareness and sometimes a little bit of other-awareness.

Well crafted, well executed, simply satisfying.

The Best Brothers, Tarragon Theatre, runs until Oct. 27

Evan Andrew Mackay is a Toronto playwright and humorist who writes about culture and social justice.

First Draught: Saison Dupump, a pumpkin ale that even beer nerds will enjoy

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It seems that the beer nerd collective has decided that pumpkin beer has gone too far. There are too many of them (the LCBO lists around 10), and they have too much spice and not enough “real beer” flavour. On the other side of the coin there are those who like these seasonal releases — possibly because they don’t taste very much like beer.

I have a solution that I think will satisfy everyone. Rather, Great Lakes does, with its Saison Dupump. Great Lakes has taken its special release Pumpkin Ale and brewed it with Belgian saison yeast. So it has all of those pumpkin pie spices and roasted, vegetal flavours, but it’s all set against a complex (and popular) beer style.

In a tulip glass, the Dupump pours a deep orange-gold with a cloudy haze and a strong, off-white froth. The pumpkin side takes a lead on the nose with a fistful of spices that I associate with Thanksgiving dessert — mainly nutmeg, cloves and allspice.

Yeast-driven flavours of grass, pepper and a slight sweetness come through on the palate. Between those and the slightly acidic finish, we get a remarkably delicious contrast to the warm spices we found in the aroma.

The key to choosing a harmonious partner for Thanksgiving dinner is to remember that turkey has almost no flavour, so focus on the sides and sauces. I like that the aroma notes from this beer will pair with roasted squash or glazed sweet potatoes, and the nimble flavours will do a good job of setting off a rich gravy and a meaty, sausage stuffing.

There is quite a large supply of the Dupump in the LCBO, but it might make sense to stash away a few bottles for Halloween.

Great Lakes Brewery’s Saison Dupump, $5.95 for a 650 ml bottle, LCBO #362814

In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is also the author of the upcoming Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at [email protected].

Shop Talk: Crywolf opens on Ossington

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Crywolf originally started as an online boutique called p0isson, but owners Stephanie Drabik and Rose Chang decided to transform their upstart business and rebrand it. Now, in addition to having a snazzier name, the shop also has a bricks-and-mortar location, which had its grand opening a few weeks ago on Ossington.

“We did a pop-up shop last year for a few weeks,” says Drabik. “It gave us the idea to do a retail shop.”

The brand is simple, but high on quality and heavy on whimsy. With backgrounds in art, both Drabik and Chang design many of the goods, including the jewellery and the screen-printed shirts. They also handle the non-glamourous aspects of running a retail store, such as buying materials and coding the website.

The space is an all-in-one shop with enough room to print shirts and house inventory under one roof. For womenswear, offerings include loose-fitting shirts and tank tops made from bamboo cotton. There are also a few men’s products, such as screen-printed shirts ($28) and baseball T-shirts ($30). Necklaces feature cute, fantastical creatures ($25 each).

“Our aesthetic is really a mish-mash of different styles,” says Drabik. “But mostly it’s stuff we find kind of weird and fun,” Chang adds.

Surprisingly, Crywolf also sells a few products for dogs (due to the owners’ affection for canines). Drabik and Chang hand-stamp letters onto custom dog tags ($5-$10 depending on the size; $1 per letter), which gives each piece a unique feel. Customized leather leashes ($32-$38) are also available, and Drabik and Chang plan to release a line entitled Woof Pack, which will include sweaters and hoodies for dogs.

It’s worth mentioning that most of the products are made in Toronto or elsewhere in Canada, including terrariums by Crown Flora, brooches by Ness Lee, stationary by Bespoken or wood-transferred Toronto Archive photos by The Button Machine.

“We are huge supporters of indie and crafted things,” says Chang. “The stuff we pick is the stuff we like personally.”

Crywolf, 91 Ossington Ave., 647-729-7078

Drink This: Hudson Kitchen’s Earth to Grapefruit

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Brad Pitt. Jennifer Aniston. (Different nights.) By now, those who care to know about Toronto’s restaurant scene are certainly aware of DuWest’s latest addition: Hudson Kitchen. While the celebs got their sneak peek during TIFF, us rubes had to wait until last week to sample the goods coming out of chef Robbie Hojilla’s kitchen.

Drink-wise, a tiny bar up front acts as the home base for the cocktails. Bar manager Jay Meyers’ menu is short and sweet, with just six cocktails served. The Earth to Grapefruit ($13) is Meyers’ redefined version of the classic Greyhound: Beefeater gin is shaken with Campari, Cointreau and fresh lemon juice, and is finished with a rim of sugar and dehydrated grapefruit rind.

Hudson Kitchen, 800 Dundas St. W., 416-644-8839

Karolyne Ellacott is a features editor at Post City Magazines. She pedals around town in heels, eating sandwiches and drinking cocktails. She writes about that, and about about other stuff too. She is also on Twitter.

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